Repair Your Own Bike

Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair

No Attribution — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:10:23 +0000

The other book I should have been carrying along with me 10 years ago – the best book in print on the subject of caring for your bike – is the Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair. This is my favorite manual because the copious close-up photographs make it supereasy to learn from. Everything you need to know about repairing road bikes and mountain bikes is here, including a Maintenance Timetable, a list of necessary tools, and encouraging words to reluctant do-it-yourselfers. Camp directors with a bicycling program can use the book to teach bike maintenance to campers or simply to make sure that all camp bikes are safe to ride.

Bicycling Magazine. (1994). Complete Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair. Emmaus, PA: Rodale Press. $16.95 Contact publisher at 33 E. Minor St., Emmaus, PA 18098. 800/848-4735.

VELO: RULES FOR DIY BIKE REPAIRS

No Attribution — Fri, 08 Feb 2008 22:10:55 +0000

RULES CONCERNING THE
DO-IT-YOURSELF BIKE-REPAIR-SHOP (BRS)
1. VELO offers students the facility to repair their own bike at the Velo-bike-repairshop.
The BRS is open from Monday till Friday from 10 am till 4 pm, on Tuesday
till 7,30 pm. You can start working until half an hour before closing time.
2. The price for the use of the facilities of the DIY bike repair shop is 􀀀 2,00. When
signing-in the student receives a repair list with the prices of the bike-parts.
3. Every student works independent at his own bike. Spectators are not allowed.
4. The instructor has the right to refuse difficult reparations. He can give instructions
on how to use material and bike-parts and on the way of repairing.
5. The reparations done by the student in the BRS are at full responsibility of the
owner of the bike. VELO can not be held responsible for material or physical
damages caused by mistakes of the student.
6. The student can only use the available materials and tools, put at his disposal by
Velo vzw. Please don’t disturb the technicians of Velo, all your questions will be
answered by the instructor.
7. The student pays for the bike-parts cash or with proton when leaving, in
accordance to the price list that is displayed in the BRS.
8. When the necessary bike-parts are not available at VELO, the student can buy
them elsewhere.
9. The student is responsible for every damage caused to space, material and tools
of VELO.
10. If the student isn’t ready at closing time, he can leave his bike with Velo until the
next day. If the bike stays a longer period in VELO, the student will have tot pay
1,25 for every extra working day. If the bike is not collected within 4 weeks after
the date of handing over, the bike becomes the property of VELO vzw.
11. Outside the building, you can find a pump. Everyone has the opportunity to fill
his/her tire with free air.
12. By using the facilities, you agree to the rules concerning the BRS.

Bicycle Commuting

No Attribution — Fri, 08 Feb 2008 05:54:28 +0000

B I C Y C L I N G I N C O L O R A D O
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BICYCLE COMMUTING
Try bicycle commuting! It’s efficient, enjoyable,
economical, healthy, and it’s good for the environment.
It’s everything transportation should be! The
State of Colorado, as well as many local Colorado
governments and employers, promote bicycling as
a practical form of transportation. Many people
already bicycle for recreation, but use a car to get
to work, school, errands, and other short trips.
This guide illustrates how employers and employees
can break the automotive habit and experience
the joy, freedom, and cost savings of everyday
bicycling.
YOUR PERSONAL GUIDE TO COMMUTING
This section provides ideas which will stimulate the development of your own personal
bicycle transportation style. The hardest part about changing personal transportation
habits is inertia. Whatever we are in the habit of doing will seem easier to us than doing
something different. This is because developing new habits requires more thought. It is
easier to absentmindedly grab the car keys than to think about how to carry the groceries
on a bicycle. If we are used to carrying groceries on a bicycle, and are set up to do so,
we will probably grab the bicycle instead of the car keys.You may not believe it now, but
once you are in the habit of making bicycling your first transportation choice, it will seem
inconvenient to use your car! You may actually feel guilty for driving your car, even when
it’s necessary!
USING YOUR BICYCLE FOR SHORT TRIPS REWARDS YOU IN MANY WAYS:
Bicycling lets you enjoy your natural surroundings, unlike car driving
which isolates you from your environment.
Bicycling is an inexpensive way to make your time and destination
your own. Public transit has time and destination limitations, and the
care and feeding of cars is expensive.
A brisk or relaxing bicycle ride home after work is a great way
to relieve stress.
RIDING FOR DIFFERENT
REASONS
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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Cycling for short trips often saves you time. It is faster to zip up to the
front of the supermarket on your bicycle for a container of milk than to
search for a parking space for your car and walk across the parking lot.
You can build a significant personal fitness level while riding to work,
school, or completing your errands, reducing or eliminating the need
to spend time working out.
Bicycling is friendly to the environment, which benefits you and
everyone else.
Bicycling gives you a sense of accomplishment.
You can use your bicycle to tote up to 100 pounds,
including small passengers, which makes the
bicycle ideal for trips to the laundromat,
library, movies, store, and for vacations.
We know that bicycle transportation works,
so use it and let it work for you!
BICYCLE TRIPS, SHORT & LONG
Bicycle trips of five miles or less can be efficient, practical and often are as fast or faster
than car trips. Start out with short rides, to the post office or grocery store – rides that are
10 to 15 minutes from your house. Learn your neighborhood first and try to commit as
many trips as possible to bicycling.
You can use your bicycle alone for farther trips, but if time is
a problem you can combine your bicycle trip with a bus ride,
drive or carpool. This way you can still get exercise, fresh air
and fun without the time constraints.
BIKE/BUS TRIPS
Bicycle to the bus stop, station, or park-n-ride,
lock your bike, and ride the bus to your
destination. Bike racks and lockers are
generally available at RTD park-n-rides.
Take your bicycle on the bus with you. Roaring Fork Transit (Aspen)
and RTD (Denver Metro) carry bicycles free on regional routes.
Regional routes go between towns, such as Longmont to Denver
or Boulder to Nederland, as opposed to city bus routes. RTD carries
bicycles in the luggage compartments underneath the buses.
RTD, Roaring Fork Transit, Fort Collins Transfort, and other transit agencies
have bike racks on their buses. For schedules and information regarding
taking your bike on the bus, consult the
transit agency servicing the town(s) in
which you wish to ride.
Have a securely locked bicycle at either
end of your bus ride. An inexpensive,
but mechanically sound bicycle which
has a number of cosmetic defects will
help deter thieves.
BIKE/CAR TRIPS
Drive to the edge of town or within a
comfortable cycling distance. Then bicycle the rest of the way to work or
from errand to errand.
Carpool with others and have them drop you off at a distance which
you can bicycle.
Drive with your bicycle one way, leave the car, and bicycle in the
other direction. Reverse the order the next day.
YOUR NEW ROUTINE
Letting go of the car keys is a hard habit to break, but it’s worth the challenge. Even
though developing new routines can be difficult, the more you bicycle, the easier it
becomes. Initially, don’t overwhelm yourself. If things don’t quite work out one day, take
a break the next day and think about how you could do it differently. Then bicycle again
the day after. Expect that the first few weeks may seem like a chore at times until you
learn how to do it well.
To bicycle regularly, some changes in your household and personal routine may have to
be made. For instance, if you usually keep your bicycle in the basement, you may need
to find a more convenient place to store it. If you are bicycling to work, you may find you
have to get up a little earlier to organize, or spend some time organizing before you go
to bed.
Grabbing your bicycle instead of the car keys will soon become second nature. Be patient
with yourself and don’t give up. It will come together!
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R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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YOUR OWN BICYCLE TRANSPORTATION STYLE
Bicycling is a very personal method of transportation. What works for one
individual may not work at all for another. Some folks prefer to wear lycra
everywhere; others wouldn’t be caught dead in it. Some folks bike fast
everywhere they go; for others, speed depends on the nature of the trip
and the time constraints; some always cycle slowly. Everyone has a
different method of carrying things.
In other words, there is no “correct” way to use your bicycle for
transportation except to obey the law. It is important to experiment to
find out what works for you. Don’t let friends and cycling enthusiasts
push you into a routine or method which isn’t right for you. Set a
reasonable goal that you feel comfortable with, such as bicycling one
day a week. Then when you’re ready, consider increasing to two to three
days a week.
MAKE IT FUN
When you bicycle for errands, plan on making it a fun outing. Say you
decide to do all your errands on Saturday morning. Make a list of
things to do, put your bike packs on your bicycle, and bike out to a nice,
leisurely breakfast. After breakfast, make your way from one errand to
the other, either taking your time, or making it a workout. Either way,
you had a pleasant morning, got some exercise and fresh air, your
errands are done, and you are less stressed than your neighbors,
who are still hunting for a parking space at the shopping area you
just left!
FIND A BUDDY
Challenge a co-worker, family
member or friend to bike to
work or errands with you.
It’s fun, and this built-in support
system also sustains your
motivation. It also provides
opportunities to share
experiences and work together
at refining techniques and
routes. Another alternative
is to find friends who already
use their bicycles for
transportation and apprentice
under them.
GET COMFORTABLE
Some people are not comfortable in traffic,
but they are comfortable on paths. Some
think bicycle transportation is a great concept,
but feel they lack cycling skills or street
smarts. Then there are some who just don’t
know how to get physically comfortable on a
bicycle, perhaps while dressed in work
clothes, in certain kinds of weather, or while
carrying things.
Comfort is the key. If you are not comfortable
for one reason or another, you probably won’t
bicycle much for transportation. Be sure to
read on for valuable information and ideas
on bicycling comfortably. When you become
proficient at using a bicycle for transportation
and develop a system that works for you,
pass on that knowledge and enthusiasm to
someone else.
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R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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EFFECTIVE BICYCLING SKILLS
BE PREDICTABLE
Predictability means obeying all traffic control devices, riding in a straight line instead of
swerving in and out of parked cars and traffic, and signaling your intention to turn or stop.
The more you help other road users anticipate your moves, the safer you will be. Your
chances of having a crash greatly increase if a driver cannot predict what you are going
to do.
Know the motor vehicle and bicycle laws of the jurisdictions you travel in. By educating
yourself, you will know what to expect from motorists and what your rights and responsibilities
are as a bicycle driver.
BE VISIBLE
Be seen to be safe. To be seen, you need to remain visible to other drivers. Bright colored
clothing, safety vests, helmets and flags all make bicyclists more visible.
Visibility is also enhanced by the proper lane position on the streets. Don’t hug the curb.
Ride approximately 18 inches to 2 feet away from the gutter, edge stripe or edge of pavement,
and far enough away from parallel parked cars to avoid getting hit by an opening
car door. Position yourself more toward the center of the lane when going through intersections
and stand up on your pedals to make yourself more visible, to present a more
assertive body posture, and to enable you to maneuver your bicycle more quickly.
When riding at night, you are required to have a headlight and reflectors (rear and side)
attached to your bicycle. The state law regarding nighttime equipment is the minimum
requirement: you can never be too visible. Wearing white clothing, reflective vests and
reflective material on your clothes and shoes will make you more visible. Pedal reflectors,
tail lights, and leg lights will all increase your chances of being seen.
SHARE THE ROAD OR TRAIL
Be aware of the safety needs of other road
users. When riding on a path, stay to the right
and pass on the left. Stay to the far right on blind
curves. Yield to pedestrians and other slower
traffic, and announce your approach with a bell,
horn or your voice. Pedestrians need to know
beforehand that a bicyclist is approaching to be
able to react appropriately. Pedestrians may be
hearing-impaired and may react slowly. If you
pass too closely or frighten pedestrians, they
may end up in your path.
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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Finally, realize that, in most cases, if you have a bicycle crash, it probably will not involve
a motorist. Most bicycle crashes are caused by bicyclists not recognizing and avoiding
road hazards, wet or slippery pavement, pavement cracks or patches of sand and gravel.
Crashes involving two bicycles or a bicycle and a pedestrian are also common. It
should be noted however, that in crashes involving an adult cyclist and a motor vehicle,
the motor vehicle driver is likely to be at fault, which makes your effective bicycling and
defensive driving skills very important.
BE ASSERTIVE
Be assertive in traffic – not aggressive. Make your presence known. Never compromise
your own safety for the convenience of others.You can be courteous to other road users
without giving up your right to the road.
Your attitude has much to do with your safety while bicycling. Obey all traffic laws, project
confidence, communicate with road users by signaling your intentions, and ride with
a friendly, cooperative, “Share the Road” attitude. These will be determining factors for
your safety and of motorists’ attitudes toward you and other cyclists.
DRIVE DEFENSIVELY
Drive your bicycle defensively. Anticipate potentially dangerous situations and decide in
advance how to negotiate them safely. Watch out for yourself in traffic; don’t expect others
to watch out for you. Never assume a motorist has seen you. Whenever possible,
make eye contact with the driver. If in doubt of the motorist’s intentions, be prepared to
yield.
Anticipate possible problems in your surroundings and be
prepared to take action. Watch for squirrels, dogs, and
other creatures so that you can avoid one if it crosses your
path. Anticipate drivers turning or pulling out in front of
you. Never depend on someone else’s driving skills to
save your life. Be prepared to get off the road in a bad situation.
This does not mean you must be paranoid when
you bicycle! It does mean that if you think and plan ahead,
you will be safer.
TIP: Never wear
headphones while
cycling! It is not
safe and a few tunes
are not worth your
safety.
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
RIDING TECHNIQUES
Many people do not commute by bicycle because they worry about their safety on the
streets. Remember that a bicycle is slower but more maneuverable than an auto, and
bicycle drivers can see and hear far more than motorists. By riding on bike paths and
streets with low traffic, you avoid the problems of high speed traffic and congestion.
Ultimately, with practice, you can work up to riding in traffic for the times when it cannot
be avoided.
It is not enough to know how to balance on your bicycle and ride without falling.You need
to develop some skills and acquire some street smarts to be able to ride safely. Be thoroughly
familiar with all operating controls. Bicycle operation should be “second nature”
so you can concentrate fully on traffic and road conditions. Always scan the road ahead
and traffic around you. Don’t stare at your front tire. This will enable you to avoid road
hazards and provide more stability.
For more information on riding techniques, consult John Forester’s book, Effective
Cycling, also available on video.
STRAIGHT LINE RIDING
The secret to riding a straight line is to look about
40 feet ahead. This is the same technique that
tightrope walkers use.Looking down at your front
wheel to see if you are “holding your line” actually
causes more problems . Looking ahead also
helps to spot road hazards.
When learning how to look backward when riding
a straight line, first try keeping your head in an
upright and level position; instead of having your
head tilted forward. As you become more accustom
to looking backward, you may eventually be
able to look backward with your head tilted forward.
Practice riding in a straight line until you are reliably in control. Practice riding along the
striping in an empty parking lot or another area away from motor vehicle traffic. Bicycle
in a straight line, even when looking back over your shoulder. Use this maneuver to
check before making lane changes and left turns even if you use a rear-view mirror.
Practice and become proficient.
Always ride on the right, with the flow of traffic. It is illegal and dangerous to do otherwise.
Drivers are not looking for bicycles or any other traffic coming at them from the left,
especially at intersections, alleys, and driveways.
2 9
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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BRAKING
If your bicycle is equipped with both front and rear brakes, use both to maintain safe control
of the bicycle. It is important to know that your front brake is much more effective
than your rear brake. However, if you apply the front brake hard, without shifting your
weight back, you can flip over the handlebars. Applying only the rear brake can cause
the rear wheel to slide out to the side. Always use both brakes and know which brake is
which. “Right = Rear” is a good way to remember.
Ride conservatively in poor weather conditions.
Brake gently and often to dry off your rims in
wet weather and to avoid skidding. Anticipate
the need to brake, and brake sooner than normal.
Use extra care when cornering.
GEARS
Know how to operate your bicycle. This
includes shifting gears without looking down at
them, and working the brakes. If the multigeared
bicycles confuse you, read your owner’s
manual or go to a bike shop for help. Practice
before riding in traffic.
QUICK TURN TECHNIQUE
Knowing how to do a quick turn can help you avoid pavement hazards or even a collision
with a car that suddenly turns in front of you while you are still going straight. In a
parking lot, practice making quick turns by first making a sharp quick swerve to the
opposite direction you wish to turn, then turn in the direction you wish to go. The first turn
forces your body to lean in the proper direction to cut a sharp turn in the correct direction.
Practice riding up to a wet sponge and, at the last second, steer quickly to the left and
back to the right just enough that your wheels miss the obstacle. Sounds weird, but it
can be done easily with a little practice.You should learn to quick turn to the left as well
as the right to be prepared for an emergency and to get comfortable handling your bicycle.
TIP:
If you need to stop FAST:
• Apply the front brake at three
times the force you apply the
rear brake
• Move your weight as far back
over the rear of the bicycle as
you can
ROUTE SELECTION
Route selection is one of the most important factors in determining whether you will have
a pleasant cycling experience. Pick a route which you are comfortable riding. Your community
may have a bicycle map and/or designated bike routes. Choose routes with low
traffic, few stops, agreeable bicycle facilities, nice scenery, interesting neighborhoods,
and which are compatible to your fitness level. This will increase your chances of having
a pleasant experience. If you find that the route you chose the first time was not to
your satisfaction, don’t be discouraged. Ask a bike shop employee or other cyclist familiar
with the area for advice.
Some people prefer to use the same route each time for a particular destination once
they have discovered one that suits them. The advantages, of course, are that you will
not get lost, you do not have to make decisions each time, and you have the opportunity
to become familiar with that neighborhood, its rhythms and its people. There is a
sense of security in being familiar with a particular neighborhood.
Others prefer variety. If you are adventurous, it can be fun to discover numerous ways to
get to the same destination. This prevents boredom and helps you become familiar with
a larger area. If you find yourself on a street which makes you uncomfortable because
of the traffic or atmosphere, alter your route, even if it means backtracking.
CAN YOU BICYCLE AND STILL COME OUT SMELLING
LIKE A ROSE?
If you don’t bicycle to work because you are afraid of
offending your clients and co-workers, the following information
could help you.
BICYCLING SLOWLY IS NOT A CRIME
If you allow yourself enough time to bicycle more slowly, you will not be as likely to perspire
as much or become disheveled. Leave early enough to bicycle at a leisurely pace
and enjoy your ride. Cycling slowly still benefits your body, your mind and the environment.
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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TIP:
Bring a city or
bicycle route map
to avoid getting
lost.
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PERSPIRATION DOESN’T SMELL, BACTERIA DOES
Perspiration is an important and natural body function which leaves no adverse odor.
Unfortunately, certain bacteria on your skin can produce an unpleasant odor as you perspire.
The trick is to keep the bacteria count down.
The dark, moist, hairy areas of your body are the breeding grounds of choice for bacteria,
armpits being the worst offenders (so to speak). For ladies, keeping your underarms
closely shaved helps prevent odor. Men may also want to trim underarm hair to make it
easier to scrub in that area. Bacteria is not always washed away with plain soap and
water. To keep your underarms fresh, splash on rubbing alcohol whenever you notice an
odor. You may find that between shaving or trimming, bathing often and using rubbing
alcohol, you will not need a deodorant.You may also find that using rubbing alcohol only
occasionally may be sufficient.
CARRYING THE KITCHEN SINK AND
OTHER IMPORTANT ITEMS
If you use a bicycle for transportation, you will need to carry things with you, perhaps a
briefcase, school books, or the dry cleaning you pick up on the way home. It is dangerous
to carry things in your hands or hooked over the handlebars, as it makes steering
more difficult and something could get caught in your front spokes. A backpack
works, but it puts stress on your back, as well as a big sweat spot. Some cyclists
attach a large basket, box, or plastic milk crate to the rear rack.
Let the bicycle do the work. Keep a rack strap or a couple
of bungee cords strapped to a sturdy rack. Make
sure any load is carefully secured to the rack so it
will not fall off or into the spokes or rub on
the tire during transport. There are rack
packs that strap onto the top of a rack to
carry smaller items.
For larger or multiple items, touring packs,
sometimes referred to as bicycle saddlebags
or panniers, are a great way to carry most other
loads. Some touring packs also convert into
backpacks or briefcases. For unusually large,
heavy, or awkward loads, a bicycle trailer is the way to
go. There are trailers specially designed to transport children
and others made for hauling cargo. Most trailers can
haul up to 100 pounds. Some can handle more weight, but
braking becomes more difficult, making it necessary to install a special braking system.
􀀀􀀀􀀀􀀀
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􀀀􀀀􀀀yyyy
yyyy
yyyy􀀀
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R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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Trailers allow you to carry four to six bags of groceries, two children (including toys and
supplies), camping equipment, a large dog, and nearly anything you might pick up on a
trip to the mall.You can think of a trailer as an environmentally sound, easy-to-park station
wagon! There are also specialty carriers, such as bicycle mounted suit bags, ski
racks and even basketball holders! You can also get creative and develop your own carrying
systems for your own particular needs.
EMPLOYER GUIDE
Bicycling can be an intimidating proposition for employees who are used to driving their
cars or taking the bus to work. And that’s where you – the employer – can help. As an
employer, you are in a prime position to encourage and facilitate a bicycle commuting
program at your organization. The benefits of such a program are numerous – to your
employees, organization, and community.
Now let’s explore why and how to start a bicycle commuting program at your organization.
While we have tried to be as comprehensive as possible, you may discover areas
of concern not covered in this manual. We encourage you to explore your own solutions
and share your successes with other bicycle commuters.
EMPLOYER BENEFITS OF A BICYCLE
COMMUTING PROGRAM
REDUCED EXPENSES
Bicycle commuting can lower parking costs
and space requirements. Providing parking
spaces for your employees can be expensive,
with the average parking space costing
$10,000 (for design, construction, maintenance,
property taxes, site insurance, etc.)
Ten to fifteen bikes can be parked in the
same amount of space as one car, resulting
in substantial cost savings and a smaller
employee parking area.
It can lower health insurance rates/expenses.
Riding a bike improves the health and fitness
of employees and reduces stress. Health
insurance rates may be significantly reduced
with healthier employees, and bicycling employees may have fewer medical expenses.
10 bikes = 1 car for
Parking Space
10 = 1
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
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Lower commuting costs. The cost
of operating a compact car is 35
cents per mile (Hertz Corporation),
while the cost of operating a bike
has been estimated at a nickel a
mile (U.S. General Accounting
Office). Employees who ride more
and drive less can save hundreds
of dollars a year on fuel, vehicle
maintenance, parking and even
automobile insurance.
BETTER HEALTH AND INCREASED PRODUCTIVITY OF EMPLOYEES
Riding a bike provides exercise, which has been found to reduce stress and improve
general health. A UCLA study demonstrated that cycling relaxes the central nervous
system, improves moods and sharpens mental acuity, while commuting by car raises
blood pressure, lowers frustration tolerance and fosters negative moods.
Organizations that have promoted employee bicycle commuting have experienced positive
results including increased productivity, decreased absenteeism and fewer on-thejob
injuries.
IMPROVED EMPLOYEE AND COMMUNITY RELATIONS
Both employees and community
members have positive feelings
toward organizations that promote
bicycle commuting. According to a
1991 Harris poll, a growing number of
employees consider bicycle commuting
facilities such as showers and bike
parking to be an important part of a
organization’s benefits package.
In addition, an organization that promotes
bicycle commuting demonstrates
a concern for clean air, a
healthier environment, reduced energy consumption and traffic congestion, and improving
the overall quality of life in the community. Such organizations are seen as progressive,
environmentally responsible, and concerned about their employees’ health and
well-being.
Bicycling is a pollution solution. Automobiles are our greatest source of air pollution and
short trips – those that are most bikeable – are up to three times more polluting per mile
than long trips. Bicycling a four-mile round trip prevents nearly 15 pounds of auto air pollution
from contaminating our air.
5 Mile Trip 10 Mile Trip 15 Mile Trip
.25 .50 .75
1.75 3.50 5.25
COST OF OPERATION
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STARTING A BICYCLE COMMUTING PROGRAM
To begin a bicycle commuting program at your business, follow these three basic steps:
1) Minimize Obstacles to Bicycle Commuting
Employees are often hesitant to try bicycle commuting because of real
or perceived drawbacks and barriers. The following list cites some
common concerns among prospective bicycle commuters and some
suggestions for eliminating those concerns.
CONCERN Arriving at work hot and sweaty after a bike ride.
SOLUTION It would be ideal if all employers provided showers and
locker rooms for their employees. However, this is not
always possible and, in fact, such facilities are not as
critical as many potential bike commuters believe.
Thanks to Colorado’s low humidity and pleasant morning
temperatures, bicyclists usually arrive at work quite fresh.
Many riders cool down with a small fan in their office and
quick wash-up in the restroom. Another option is to arrange
for bicyclists to use the shower/locker room facilities at a
nearby health club. Providing storage areas (such as
standing wardrobes) where employees can keep a few
days’ worth of fresh clothes also will make bike commuting
more appealing.
CONCERN Secure parking/storage for bicycles and equipment.
SOLUTION Knowing that their bicycles are safely parked during work
hours is of utmost importance to bicycle commuters.Your
organization may want to invest in bicycle lockers that
provide complete security as well as protection from the
elements (see Resource Directory for bicycle locker
organizations).You may also wish to install high-quality
bike racks (which support bikes by the frame) in an area
where they can be watched. Or, consider allowing
employees to park and lock their bikes indoors in a bike
room, storage closet, empty office or their own offices.
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CONCERN Bad weather or breakdowns/flat tires.
SOLUTION A program where the employer agrees to pick up “flatted”
commuters will provide some vital reassurance to novices.
Maintain a “tube library” with a floor pump at work, and
encourage riders to use tire liners and flat sealing
compounds to help prevent thorn punctures. In addition,
offer your employees peace of mind by providing them
with a Guaranteed Ride Home Program, such as the
RideArrangers program offered by the Denver Regional
Council of Governments. Employees who bicycle to work
receive a free taxi ride home in the event that bad weather
or mechanical problems prevent them from commuting
home by bicycle. The RideArrangers program also covers
carpoolers, vanpoolers, transit riders and those who walk
to work.
CONCERN Unfamiliar with bike routes/uncomfortable riding alone.
SOLUTION Have experienced bicycle commuters lay out their routes on
a master map so that riders can arrange to meet along the
way and “buddy” to and from work. Also, provide bicyclists
with route maps and safety information (see Resource list).
CONCERN Spending a lot of money on a bicycle and related equipment
in order to try bicycle commuting.
SOLUTION Your organization may want to purchase bikes which can be
loaned to interested employees on a thirty to sixty day trial
basis. Prospective bicycle commuters can then try out
bicycle commuting without having to invest in equipment
themselves. If employees commit to bicycle commuting
on a regular basis, they may buy their loaner from the
organization at a discount. Finally, emphasize to your
employees that bicycle commuting isn’t necessarily
expensive and will in fact save them money.
2) Provide Incentives To Bicycle Commuters
Businesses can also encourage employees to try bicycle commuting by
offering some or all of the following incentives:
Purchase equipment such as helmets, rear-view mirrors, head
lights or reflective vests for those employees who commit to
commuting by bike three or more times a week.
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
3 7
Offer flextime to bicycling employees so they can avoid peak rush
hour congestion and fumes.
Allow an occasional fifteen minute grace period for bicyclists in case
a breakdown or other mishap causes them to arrive at work late.
Provide a pool of organization-owned bikes which employees may
use for short business trips, errands and recreation.
Give cash back to bicyclists for part or all of the parking spaces they
don’t use (if your business subsidizes parking).
Permit a more relaxed dress code.
Hold monthly drawings for cash or other prizes for bicyclists.
Provide one playing card a day to riders in a weekly bike commuter
poker game. You can’t beat a straight if you only have two cards!
Give time bonuses to bicyclists (fifteen minutes of vacation time
for each bicycle commute trip).
3) Promote Your Bicycle Commuting Program
A successful bicycle commuting program has the commitment of top
management and is promoted on a regular basis. Employers can
encourage the program by:
Providing route and safety information to employees.
Holding bike related workshops.
Reserving bulletin board and newsletter space for bicycle-related
issues and information.
Organizing and supporting an organization bike club.
Distributing t-shirts with your organization logo to participating
bicyclists.
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
3 8
BICYCLE TOURING
A great way to spend a day, weekend, or vacation is bicycle touring. Traveling under your
own power out in the open air can be a liberating and satisfying experience and Colorado
is a beautiful and challenging place to bicycle.
TIPS
• Colorado weather can
change suddenly so be
prepared. Carry rain gear
and a windbreaker or
sweater in all seasons.
• Always carry ample water
and sip it periodically to
prevent dehydration.
Remember to drink before
you feel thirsty.
• Carry ample food. Snack
periodically, remembering
to eat before you feel
hungry. Food is the fuel
for cyclists.
• Carry a bike pump, patch
kit, spare tube, tire levers,
money, and identification.
For longer or more remote
trips, carry additional tools
selected for your bike and
know how to use them.
• Learn how to repair a flat tire and do basic bicycle repairs and
adjustments. This may prevent you from being stuck in the
middle of nowhere.
• Protective tire sealants, tire liners, and other devices are
available at bike shops which will virtually eliminate the
need to repair flats, though it is still important to carry a
pump and know how to repair a flat.
• Bicycle route maps are a necessity. Check the Resource
Directory for sources.
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
3 9
BICYCLE RACING
Bicycle racing is facilitated by USA Cycling, the national body for road and track races,
and the United States Cycling Federation (USCF). The Bicycle Racing Association of
Colorado (BRAC) coordinates racing within the state. Off-road races are frequent in the
summer, under the auspices of the National Off-Road Bicycle Association (NORBA). All
of the competitions offer categories by age and/or ability. Contact the regulating organizations
for details.
Most road races are permitted by the United States Cycling Federation. The organization
has official racing rules including such details as wearing an ANSI approved bicycle helmet,
following the rules of the road unless under escort or with roadway agency approval,
and staying on the right side of the yellow centerline of a roadway in a road race. These
rules are enforced by USCF-trained Race Officials who closely monitor each race.
Contact the USCF for information on available insurance coverage.
If you plan bicycle races or social rides using state highways, you can order a copy of
Administration of Bicycle Events on Colorado Roads: Guidelines for Event Organizers
from the Bicycle/Pedestrian Program at the Colorado Department of Transportation,
303-757-9982.
R I D I N G F O R D I F F E R E N T R E A S O N S
4 0
MOUNTAIN BIKING
Colorado offers splendid opportunities for mountain biking. Special considerations should
be taken when bicycling in this more remote and delicate environment. In addition to the
Tips for Bicycle Touring, please follow these guidelines:
• Bicycle use is prohibited in wilderness areas of National Forests,
off-road in National Parks, Boulder Mountain Parks west of State
Highway 93, and East and West Maroon Pass in the Aspen Area.
• Carry additional tools to repair unexpected damage to your chain or
wheels so you will not become stranded. Important are a chain pin
tool and a spoke wrench. Know how to use these tools.
• Prepare for the unexpected. If you ride in the backcountry, you
should carry provisions for overnight survival and emergencies.
• Follow the Rules for Shared-Use Paths (see page 19).

National Mountain Bike Patrol Handbook

No Attribution — Sat, 19 Jan 2008 02:45:42 +0000

Patroller Handbook
2
National Mountain Bike Patrol
Program Description
The mission of IMBA’s Mountain Bike Patrol program is to maintain and promote trail
opportunities for mountain bikers through the promotion, education and support of local
mountain bike patrol groups.
The NMBP is a network of over 600 individual patrollers and 80 patrol groups operating
throughout North America and the world. Financial support for the NMBP comes
primarily from individual members and bike industry sponsors.
Patrols are comprised of volunteer mountain bikers who have completed appropriate
training and are able to inform, assist and educate fellow mountain bikers and other trail
users. Local patrols are encouraged to host trainings regularly and invite new members to
joint the local and national Patrol.
Patrols typically operate as a volunteer group for the local land management agency.
They may or may not be affiliated with a local mountain bike club. Patrollers promote
responsible mountain biking through IMBA’s philosophy of environmentally sound and
socially responsible riding, embodied in the universally recognized IMBA Rules of the
Trail.
The Patrol emphasizes emergency medical response, responsible riding education,
mechanical assistance, environmental concerns, trail user etiquette, local expertise, and
interaction with land management agencies. Enforcement is NOT a function of mountain
bike patrols.
Successful Patrols become the eyes and ears of the land managers they work with.
IMBA is a member-supported 501c(3) non-profit dedicated to preserving and enhancing
trail opportunities for mountain bikers worldwide. Your membership in the National
Mountain Bike Patrol includes IMBA membership.
3
National Mountain Bike Patrol
Patroller Handbook
Disclaimer
The guidelines outlined in these materials are the generally accepted standards and
procedures for mountain bike patrol programs. They are intended for use as suggestions
and helpful guides, not strict rules. Land ownership rules, regulations, guidelines for
trail/facility use, and specific techniques and procedures will vary based on local needs,
climates, terrain, etc. Each patrol group should feel free to adapt them to their specific
needs.
These guidelines have been written and reviewed by interagency groups associated with
mountain bike patrol programs.
The interagency groups, which include NORBA, IMBA, National Ski Patrol, the NMBP
Advisory Committee, BLM, Jefferson County Parks, numerous individual mountain bike
patrol representatives and interested parties assume no liability whatsoever arising out of,
or related to, any damage or injury that may arise from the application of the information
and principles presented in this material.
4
Mountain Bike Patroller
Description Of Duties
Responsibilities
• Patrol a minimum number of hours (specified by local patrol) over a patrolling season
plus training. Example: 50 hours minimum from April through October.
• Observe and follow the pre-arranged and agreed upon patrolling schedule. Be where
you are supposed to be when you are to be there.
• Wear and maintain the proper uniform for the patrol unit.
• Make sure patrol unit provided equipment is signed out, returned, and if necessary,
restocked in working order and in a timely fashion. Patroller is responsible for
equipment when in their possession.
• Keep a positive, helpful attitude and represent the NMBP and your local patrol in a
professional way.
• Help maintain safe trails by being alert and reporting hazards, obstacles, and remedies
as required.
• Assist in the care and transportation of injured or ill persons.
• Accurately complete appropriate incident record procedures and/or log sheets.
• Interact effectively with all trail users (hikers, hunters, joggers, equestrians, etc.) and
emergency care providers and land management groups.
• Respect local ecology and trail conditions (don’t ride in muddy conditions).
• Know how to contact and provide effective feedback to individuals, agencies, and
organizations that have jurisdiction in the local area (includes land owner, land
manager, enforcement agency and the emergency contact).
• Follow the individual requirements specific for the local Patrol.
Qualifications
• Satisfy all established training requirements established by the National Mountain
Bike Patrol/local patrol group and the area land manager including, but not limited to:
-first aid/emergency care
-communication equipment skills
-interpersonal skills
5
-trail/environmental issues and impact
-orienteering
-riding skills
-emergency bike repair
• Know and follow all local policies and procedures.
• Know personal limitations on ability to provide services.
• Demonstrate adequate mountain bike patrol skill competence.
• Maintain your personal bike to prevent any failures on the trail.
Personal risk management
• Stay within your physical limits when operating within the scope of the patroller
responsibilities.
• Comprehend and differentiate between personal and patrol responsibility regarding
insurance and health coverage.
• Dress appropriately for the weather conditions and be prepared for the unexpected (do
not become a patient).
• Always wear a helmet and other appropriate safety gear.
• If possible, carry extra water and energy food.
• New Patrollers are strongly advised to patrol with more experienced Patrollers for the
first six months.
• If possible, tap into local law enforcement agencies to get some specialized training
on how to confront or approach difficult people without putting oneself in harm’s
way. Remember, law enforcement is not a function of the Patrol.
6
Working With Your Local Land
Management Agencies
The Patrol/Land Manager Relationship — A Crucial Link: It’s probable that the land
on which your local trail system lies is owned, or at least managed by, a local, state, or
federal land management agency. A good working relationship with local land managers
is the most important component of a successful mountain bike patrol. Each area has its
own unique trail use issues and local land managers are aware of these.
Local land management agencies include city, and county parks and recreation areas.
State level agencies include parks, forests, and recreation areas. At the federal level, the
Bureau of Land Management (BLM), United States Forest Service (USFS), and National
Park Service (NPS) are the key agencies.
BLM, USFS, and NPS manage almost one quarter of the land in the US. Land managers
oversee recreation on public lands and they are responsible for decisions regarding trail
access, new trails and trail closure.
Meeting With Land Managers: When meeting with your local land manager, it’s a good
idea to have a list of benefits that the patrol intends to provide to him/her. Most land
management agencies are facing tighter budgets than ever before and are in need of the
type of volunteer help you can provide. In many cases, acting as the eyes and ears for the
land manager is the patrol’s best service. Other benefits may include providing the land
manager with regular reports covering trail hazards, trail sections in need of repair,
incidents involving other trail users, facilities in need of repair, missing or confusing
signs, feedback/suggestions from trail users, etc… Land managers will be please to know
that NMBP Patrol members are prepared to provide first aid, mechanical help, directions,
local advice, water, and even sunscreen to trail users. Trail sweeping for downed trees,
fallen rocks, and other potentially dangerous obstacles is also something patrollers can
easily do.
Be prepared to provide the land manager with a list of support items that the patrol might
need. These might include access to radios, report forms, fanny packs and first aid
7
supplies, badges or pins identifying patrollers as agency volunteers, and training in the
use of radios, agency policies, and possibly even first aid/CPR training. The land
manager may be able to offer other benefits as well.
Work with the land manager to identify activities that the patrol and agency could do
together, such as trail maintenance projects or joint response to medical emergencies,
search and rescues, etc. A good working relationship with your land manager will help
keep your trails in good condition – and open to mountain bikes – for years to come.
8
Trail & Environmental Issues
And Minimum Impact Riding
In most cases where trails are closed to mountain bikes, the reason is often
environmental impact or social incompatibility. Environmental impact can be reduced
to manageable levels by proper trail design and by riding responsibly. As a patroller, you
play a key role in educating riders about being a courteous and ecologically respectful
trail user.
Some non-bikers have a negative image of mountain biking as the result of an interaction
with an unruly cyclist. These interactions are the exception, but the negative image they
create far outweighs the slow, steady progress responsible riders have made towards
improving our image.
Responsible riding has as much to do with how we are perceived as a group as it does
with how we actually behave on the trail. In order for mountain bikes (and patrols) to be a
respected and viable member of the outdoor community, it is essential that patrols
understand and educate mountain bikers on the importance of respecting the trail, the
surrounding area, and other trail users. In other words, follow and actively promote
IMBA’s Rules of the Trail and the principles of Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org):
1. Ride on open trails only
2 Leave no trace
3. Control your bicycle
4. Always yield trail and respect other users
5. Don’t scare animals
6. Plan ahead and be prepared
OTHER ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
9
Trails: Trail closure to mountain biking is sometimes based on the perception that
mountain bikes cause more damage to trails than hikers or horses. Independent scientific
research has shown this to be false, yet mountain bikers often get the blame when poor
trail design and erosion are the true culprits. It’s important that patrollers observe and
expose these simple rules for low impact riding:
• Ride on open trails only — respect trail closures including seasonal or
short-term closures.
• Never ride in designated Wilderness areas, which are closed to bikes.
• Don’t skid.
• Know the soil types in your area and when they are dry enough to ride.
• Don’t ride around water bars — erosion is a trail’s worst enemy.
• Stay on existing trails.
• Don’t shortcut switchbacks.
Patrollers should be able to tactfully explain to other mountain bikers why they should
follow these rules and the consequences of breaking them. Know which trails are closed
to mountain bikes and when. Be familiar with the various causes of trail erosion and
proper trail construction techniques. This knowledge is an important component of the
NMBP’s mission to educate our fellow trail users.
The fragile cryptobiotic crust that covers much of the ground in the Moab, UT area and
other parts of the Southwest is good example of this is kind of concern. The delicate
cover provides a crucial role in preventing erosion by allowing vegetation to grow in the
harsh desert soil. The Moab Mountain Bike Patrol has done a great job educating riders
about the importance of staying on the trail.
10
SOCIAL ISSUES
High speeds, reckless riding, spooking horses, unnerving other trail users – these are the
most common accusations leveled at mountain bikers. It comes down to two key points:
safety and respect. Patrollers should stress the importance of yielding the trail to other
users. Yielding does not necessarily mean stopping. Slowing to a controlled, nonthreatening
speed and being prepared to stop quickly and smoothly is usually sufficient.
Use common sense.
Note: Encourage riders to be especially careful when passing equestrians. Make verbal
contact with the rider and be prepared to stop if necessary.
Racers training for competition will want to ride fast. Some trails and times of day/week
are appropriate for high-speed riding. Others are not. Patrollers should be prepared to
suggest (again tactfully) alternative trails where high speed riding is more acceptable.
Awareness of non-recreational land users (like ranchers) may also be an issue. Bikers
need to respect crops and livestock.
Finally, do not ride on trails closed to bicycles. For various reasons it is appropriate that
some trails are closed to bikes. If you feel a particular trail should be open to biking, talk
to your land manager/land owner and work with them to open it.
11
Emergency Trailside Bike Repair
A rider has a mechanical failure just a couple miles from the nearest trailhead. If warmth
and daylight aren’t waning, the mechanical is only an inconvenience. But add falling
temperature, darkness, and less than intimate knowledge of the surrounding area and
suddenly a minor inconvenience becomes a very unpleasant experience – or even a lifethreatening
situation.
It is important for bike patrollers to educate the mountain biking public on the importance
of being prepared for mechanical problems on the trail. Patrollers must be able to perform
basic trailside bike repairs, for their own sake and for that of other riders who may need
mechanical assistance.
National Mountain Bike Patrol Bike Repair Guidelines: Patrollers should be
comfortable with basic bike repair tools and able to perform the following standard field
repairs:
1. Flat repair
2 Chain repair
3. Derailleur adjustment
4. Seat adjustment
5. Brake adjustment
6. Head set adjustment
7. Basic spoke and wheel repair
Training: One way patrols can learn or brush up on their bike repair skills is through a
local bike shop. The local shop might be willing to donate a mechanic’s expertise for a
training clinic. Explaining your patrol’s involvement in the cycling community will
increase the likelihood of them offering training assistance. This is a great way to build a
relationship with a local bicycle dealer.
An alternative is to have a knowledgeable patrol member or friend teach the group. There
are a number of excellent books about bike repair available.
Practice often and share experiences about creative solutions to field mechanical failures.
12
Legal Issues: Performing mechanical repair on another person’s bike could lead to legal
action if that person were to injure themselves as a result of a patrol member’s actions. It
is preferable to supply the rider with tools and advice to fix his/her own bike. This way
the patrol member is not liable for injury as a result of the repair. In addition, the rider
will learn how to do the repair himself/herself. Use common sense. If you’re deep in the
backcountry, or if it’s getting cold/dark, or if the other rider has no mechanical ability, it’s
better to fix the problem yourself so that the rider can safely return to civilization. Land
managers will often have a policy regarding mechanical aid.
Tool/Spare Parts Kit Contents: It is suggested that patrollers carry and be familiar with
the following tools:
• multi tool • pump (presta/schrader)
• chain tool (chain breaker) • patch kites
• hex key set (Allen wrenches) • tubes (presta/schrader)
• Phillip’s head & flat head screwdriver • duct tape (small roll)
• adjustable wrench (small) • zip ties
• spoke wrench • cables (shifter/brake)
• tire levers (2-3) • tire boot for ripped tires
Bike Repair Publications: There are a number of good books available about bike
repair. It’s suggested that the patrol have a small library available to patrol members and
trainees.
13
First Aid/Emergency Care Guidelines
First aid treatment provided by a patroller can vary from giving out Band-Aids for small
cuts to the transportation of an unconscious patient with a head injury. There is a wide
range of first aid/emergency care certification levels and a number of good training
organizations.
The NMBP’s policy on emergency care guidelines for patrols is as follows: NMBP
individual patrollers must be certified in standard first aid & CPR (or equivalent) from an
accredited source. A sampling of first aid/emergency care and CPR training providers are
listed at the end of this section. All patrollers, however, are encouraged to seek advanced
or wilderness-specific first aid training beyond the minimum requirement for NMBP
membership.
If a volunteer patrol is working with a land management agency, then each person in the
patrol should be certified in the emergency care program required by that agency. The
land manager will most likely be able to provide or arrange the necessary training for the
patrol. In some cases, land managers may not want volunteers to administer first aid. If
that’s the case, then you must observe that policy.
Advanced Levels of Certification: Higher levels of emergency care certification include
Outdoor Emergency Care, Wilderness First Responder, and Wilderness Emergency
Medical Technician (EMT). Some patrol members may be interested in these levels of
certification (or may already be certified). See your Patrol Director or contact IMBA’s
patrol coordinator for recommendations on where to pursue advanced first aid or search
and rescue training.
14
Local Protocols: If your group decides to seek a higher level of certification, make sure
your treatment protocol meets the standards and requirements of local emergency
facilities. This ensures uniformity of care.
Liability and Insurance: Volunteers who provide medical and mechanical assistance,
receive protection from liability suits under the Good Samaritan act. The important thing
to remember is that you stay within the limits of your training. Good Samaritan laws vary
by state and patrollers should be aware of what the law is in their state. The same liability
insurance available to IMBA clubs is available to patrols at a very reasonable rate
through IMBA and McKay Insurance Agency, Inc. See imba.com/nmbp/benefits.html for
details.
First Aid Pack Contents: Most patrollers wear some type of pack such as a large
capacity hydration pack (Camelbak H.A.W.G) which can be used to carry first aid
supplies, tools and tubes. It is recommended that every patroller carry a complete first aid
kit: (Note that the level of training and the local area will influence what supplies are
carried).
Basic (minimum) First Aid Kit/Pack
Note: list should incorporate local needs and local medical protocols.
Suggested contents include:
• rubber gloves (4 pr) • cravats (5) • glucose tablets
• safety pins (10) • adhesive bandages (12) • knife (Swiss Army-type)*
• lighter* • Kling (4 rolls) • small notebook*
• ice pack • 4” x 4” bandages (12) • Incident report sheets*
• bug repellent* • 5” x 9” bandages (2) • trauma scissors
• compass* • adhesive tape • pocket mask
• trail maps (10) • wire (SAM) splint • 1-4 oz. eye wash
• water purification pills • 4-oz. tube antibiotic creme • 4-oz. bottle sunscreen
• antiseptic towlettes • space blanket • Ace bandage
• 6 tonge depressors • signal mirror (old CD works great)
* Items are not necessarily first aid specific, but should be carried by patrollers.
Note: Medication, lotions, bug repellents, salves, etc. should only be provided, and must
never be applied by the patroller.
15
Suggested First Aid/Emergency Care Trainers & Resources:
(Note: These are not the only providers of accredited first aid courses. Ask your local patrol leaders for
recommendations.)
• American Red Cross (Standard First Aid, First Responder, CPR)
National Headquarters
8111 Gatehouse Rd
Falls Church, VA 22042
703-206-6000
• National Ski Patrol (Outdoor First Care, Outdoor Emergency Care)
133 S. Van Gordon, Suite 100
Lakewood, CO 80228
(303) 988-1111
• National Safety Council (CPR, various levels of emergency care)
1121 Spring Lake Dr.
Itasca, IL 60143-3201
(800) 621-7656
• American Heart Association (CPR)
National Center
7272 Greenville Avenue
Dallas, TX 75231
• Wilderness Medicine Institute of NOLS (Wilderness First Aid, First Responder, EMT)
www.wmi.nols.edu
Wilderness Medicine Institute
284 Lincoln Street
Lander, WY 82520
• National Association for Search and Rescue
4500 Southgate Place, Ste 100
Chantilly, VA 20151
(703) 222-6277
16
• local hospitals and HMOs
Many have first aid/emergency care courses. Any should have information on other
providers.
Outdoor Emergency Care Publications:
• Outdoor Emergency Care, Dr. Warren Bowman M.D., 1993, National Ski Patrol, (303) 988- 1111.
Details comprehensive emergency care for the non-urban setting.
• Outdoor First Care, 1994, National Ski Patrol. Covers basic first aid and personal precautions for
infection control.
• Wilderness Medicine, Dr. Paul S. Auerbach, M.D., 1995, Mosby Publishing. Covers management of
wilderness emergencies.
• Wilderness First Aid, Backer M.D., Bowman M.D., Paton M.D., Steele M.D., Thygerson M.D.,
1998, Jones and Bartlett Publishers. Covers emergency care for remote locations.
17
NMBP Two -Way Radio License Information
Permission to transmit on the 151.625 MHz frequency is licensed to IMBA by the FCC
for the NMBP program. NMBP grants affiliated patrols and NMBP members to transmit
on this frequency only when performing mountain bike patrol work. Radios with power
output up to 5 watts may be used. Please note; there are very stiff FCC fines for violation
of FCC radio rules and regulations. Please read this list closely and abide by all rules.
Because IMBA and NMBP are the named licensees and are therefore responsible
for its use, NMBP must restrict use of the NMBP call sign (also known as license
number or identification number) to NMBP member groups/individuals.
NMBP’s call sign is: WPLT262. As required by the FCC, the call sign is to be stated
every 45 minutes if continuously transmitting. If, (more likely) you are only transmitting
intermittently, the call sign should be stated after completion of a transmission.
Technically, this is an industrial business frequency. It is also an “itinerant” band so it can
be used nationwide and does not require coordination. Because construction truck drivers
are the primary users of itinerant bands, it is possible that in some areas patrollers may
have to share this frequency with these other radio users. Sharing a frequency is almost
always part of two-way radio communication, and it is unlikely there will be much
construction related transmission in forested places or other typical mountain bike riding
areas.
In the event of life-threatening emergency, patrollers can transmit on any frequency
(including 155.160 or other special emergency frequencies monitored by hospitals or
emergency agencies) to call for help. You may want to ask local authorities/emergency
groups for the frequency(s) they monitor and for permission to transmit on that frequency
in the event of a serious emergency.
18
Revision history
October 2001
May 2005 NMBP Advisory Committee
overseen by Zach Vanderkooy
General update/addition of
material
National Mountain Bike Patrol
International Mountain Bicycling Association
PO Box 7578 Boulder CO 80306
ph: 303-545-9011 x 106, fax: 303-545-9026
email: patrol@imba.com, web: www.imba.com

Reduce overseas cash costs

No Attribution — Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:37:04 +0000

During the early days of international bicycle touring, cyclists would hide coins and valuables in the tubing of their bicycle frames to evade robbers.

On a 1,300-mile bike tour of Spain and Portugal last year, Steven Sweedler of Plymouth, N.H., found it easier to stash an ATM card in his pocket.

“When I land at an airport, I get 200 to 300 euros from the nearest ATM and then pay for lodging and meals with cash,” said Sweedler, who has taken six trips overseas since 2001. He refills his wallet as he goes, which works fine in Europe, where automated teller machines are easy to find.

How best to handle money while traveling has been a quandary since the time of the caravans. Thankfully, credit cards, banking networks and ATMs have made it convenient to obtain foreign currency and complete financial transactions overseas. But convenience isn’t always cheap. Travelers will find that a little research will save money and trouble.

ATM and credit cards: Call the customer service numbers and ask the banks and issuers how they calculate the exchange rate and what extras they tack on for purchases in a foreign currency. These vary by bank and by card.

If you’re taking the ATM option, Bank of America is one of the better ways to go — but be careful to follow the rules. Typically, BofA charges 1 percent over the wholesale currency exchange rate and a $5 fee for overseas withdrawals. Tack on a local bank fee, and you can be paying a hefty 6 percent or more for grabbing 100 euros from a Berlin ATM.

But if you seek out bank machines that are part of the Global ATM Alliance, there are no transaction fees, said BofA spokeswoman Betty Reiss.

There are 27,000 such machines worldwide, including the ATM networks of Scotiabank in Canada; BNP Paribas in France; Barclays in Britain and parts of Africa; Deutsche Bank in Germany, Poland, Spain and Italy; and Westpac in Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific.

BofA doesn’t treat its credit card customers nearly as well. They pay 3 percent over the wholesale exchange rate in premiums and transaction fees, Reiss said.

There are better credit card options. American Express charges its customers a 2 percent premium over the wholesale exchange rate.

Traveler’s checks: These remain a tried-and-true method of carrying money on vacation. If you are careful to store the receipts separately from the checks, you can quickly get a refund, making them one of the safest forms of overseas funds.

There’s a 1 percent fee upon purchase (though many banks will waive the purchase fee for good customers), and tourists can encounter service fees and higher exchange rates when they are redeemed. As long as it is a recognizable issuer, the label on the checks isn’t important.

When cyclist Sweedler and his traveling partner rolled into one town in Spain, they found that “the banks there would not take the check of the guy I was riding with,” Sweedler said. “We had to go to four (banks) to find one that would cash one, and the exchange rate was not as good as the money I was getting out of the machine.”

One way American Express is addressing that problem is with a traveler’s check card. A customer preloads a certain amount of cash onto the card, which can be used like an American Express credit card. If it is lost or stolen, American Express replaces any unspent funds within 24 hours.

Changing cash: “I don’t suggest changing a large amount of money at an airport,” said Amy Ziff, Travelocity’s travel adviser. “That is the way to pay the most in fees and get the worst exchange rate.”

Ziff and others suggest taking a small amount of the currency of the nation you are going to land in, perhaps enough for a cab ride, a meal and any airport incidentals but be smart about where you get it.

On a recent Monday, for example, ICE Currency Service in Los Angeles International Airport charged customers $1.93 for a British pound and $1.34 for a euro, plus a $4.95 transaction fee. But on the same day at the same time, discount exchanger International Currency Express in Beverly Hills, Calif., asked $1.84 for a pound and $1.26 per euro and charged a $2 transaction fee. So 200 euros would cost $272.95 at the LAX exchange kiosk and $254 at International Currency Exchange, a 7.5 percent difference.

“It might not be convenient to carry lots of cash with you,” said Lars Hansson, owner of International Currency Express, “but we can get people a good rate, and travelers can take $300 to $400 of cash in the currency they need when they leave.” He stocks 40 currencies and can obtain exotic bills within a day or so.

AAA offers a pricey but convenient TipPak: For $100, it sells $93 in pounds or euros at any office. With advance notice, the auto club can also get Japanese yen, Mexican pesos or Canadian dollars.

Bike Smarts

No Attribution — Thu, 10 Jan 2008 04:27:12 +0000

BIKE SMARTS: A HANDBOOK 01/2007
SESSION 3
High-Tech Handling
Introduction
Improve the skills of participants as bicycle riders
on a safe course set up in the parking lot.
Main Concepts
By the end of this session, participants will have
developed and practised the following skills:
1. balancing 5. stopping/braking
2. pedaling 6. turning
3. steering 7. shoulder checking
4. shifting gears 8. climbing
Equipment/Preparation
■ Participants: Bikes and helmets
■ Cones, start and fi nish streamers/markers,
plastic bottles (various sizes), whistles,
dimes
■ Cut pieces of coloured card paper (2″ x 3″)
for shoulder checking activity
■ Hazards: hose, plywood pieces, sand, water,
cones, tarp
■ Photocopy Observation Sheet p. 42 (make
extras for volunteers)
On-Bike Activities
1. Set up a bike handling skills course.
It should include a straight line section
and a slalom course. (see p. 18 and 20)
2. Begin by fi nding out each participant’s ability
as a bicycle rider. Have them manoeuvre
through a Figure 8 on the skills course. Record
their ability level on the Observation Sheet.
3. Review and practise the principles and proper
procedures for:
■ proper seating position
■ balancing
■ pedaling with both hands on handlebars,
then with either hand removed
4. Drills (see p.17–20) Parent and teacher
volunteers can be helpful here.
■ Balancing: Turtle Race, Bottle Pick-up
(p. 17)
■ Pedaling: Straight Line Ride, Alternate
Hands (p. 18)
■ Braking/Stopping: Stop Drill, Whistle Stop,
Stop on a Dime (p. 19)
■ Shoulder Checking: Cue Card Colours
(p. 19)
Teaching Notes
1. Work with a partner and/or with another adult if you have more
than 10 children in your group. Set up two stations on your Bike
Handling Skills Course.
2. Divide the participants into two or three groups according to
ability, with specifi c instructions for a sequence of drills and
practices to keep them moving.
3. Be specifi c about behaviour expectations when you are working
with one of the other groups.
4. Use the expert riders in your group to demonstrate their
expertise, and to help with less experienced riders.
5. Use the following procedures to coach students in the various
skills:
■ Observe carefully the current level of skill of each
participant.
■ Identify areas of strength and weakness.
■ Praise strengths.
■ Explain that practising in a safe environment will help them
develop a particular skill.
■ Repeat activities and drills to improve
performance in one particular skill.
■ Keep all participants active and having fun.
16

Bicycling Books for Riders Who Read

No Attribution — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 21:50:36 +0000

1
Bicycling Books
for Riders Who Read
Table of Contents
I. Introduction
II. Search Strategies
a. Browsing
b. Subject Browse
c. Key words in Title
III. Selected Library Materials
a. Books
b. Magazines
c. Videos/DVDs
IV. Websites
I. Introduction
This guide will help you find the Vancouver Public Library’s information resources on bicycles and
bicycling. Information about bicycling can be found in several different areas of the library. You
can use this guide to find the type of information you want.
II. Search Strategies
The Library has many books, videos and magazines on all aspects of bicycling. Materials on the
technological aspects of bicycling are found in the Science and Business Division on Level 4.
Materials focusing on riding and racing bicycles are found in the Literature and Social Science
Division (L3). Bicycle touring guides are located in the Fine Arts and History Division (L6).
Science and Business Division –Level 4
February 2006
2
a. Browsing
If you simply wish to browse the shelves for books or other materials on a particular topic, here is
a short list of call number locations on major bicycling topics. The floor numbers (levels) apply only
in the Central Branch.
Subject Heading Call # Level Example
All terrain cycling
(aka mountain biking) 796.63 3
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Biking
(796.63 G29u)
Bicycle racing 796.62 3
Racing Tactics for Cyclists
(796.62 P92r)
Bicycle touring
(general) 796.6 3
Bicycling Magazine’s Guide to Bike Touring
(796.6 D67b)
Bicycle touring
(specific location) 910-920 6
Backcountry Biking in the Canadian Rockies
(917.1104 L59b2)
Bicycles 629.227
2 4
The Noblest Invention: An Illustrated History of
the Bicycle
(629.2272 B583n)
Bicycles – Maintenance and repair 629.227
2 4
Bike Repair Manual
(629.2272 S56b)
Cycling 796.6 3
Bicycling Magazine’s 1,000 All-Time Best Tips
(796.6 B583s2)
Another way to find materials about bicycling is to use the Library Catalogue, also called the iPAC.
There are a number of ways to find information in the iPAC. Two methods of searching are
Subject Browse and Key words in Title.
b. Subject Browse
From the iPAC search screen, select Subject Browse from the drop-down menu, and enter a
subject heading. When the list of subject headings appears, choose the most specific heading
available. For example, if you are looking for information on the history of the Tour de France the
best subject heading would be “Tour de France (Bicycle race) – History” instead of “Bicycle
racing—History.” Commonly used subject headings are :
• All terrain cycling
• Bicycle racing
• Bicycle touring
• Bicycles
• Bicycles – Maintenance and repair
• Cycling
3
d. Key words in Title
From the iPAC search screen, select Key words in Title. If you cannot remember the exact title
or do not know the correct subject heading, you can search by keyword.
For example, typing in “Postal bus” will bring up the title Inside the Postal Bus: My Ride with
Lance Armstrong and the US Postal Cycling Team by Canadian cyclist Michael Barry.
III. Selected Library Materials
a. BOOKS
Commuting Lifestyle
The Art of Urban Cycling: Lessons from the Street (2004)
Hurst, Robert J
796.6 H96a
Carfree Cities (2000)
Crawford, J. H.
711.7 C89c
Cities and Automobile Dependence: A Sourcebook (1989)
Newman, Peter, Dr.
388.4 N55c
Commuting by Bike (1995)
Orobko, Will.
388.3472 O74c
The Essential Bicycle Commuter (1998)
Bell, Trudy E.
796.6 B43e
Street Reclaiming: Creative Livable Streets and Vibrant Communities (1999)
Engwicht, David
710.4 E58s
Fiction, Trivia, and Folklore
Full Tilt : Ireland to India with a Bicycle (1965)
Murphy, Dervla
915.4 M978f
In Pursuit of the Yellow Jersey: Bicycle Racing in the Year of the Tortured Tour (1999)
Abt, Samuel
796.62 A16i
It’s Not About the Bike: My Journey Back to Life (2001)
Armstrong, Lance
796.62 A73a
4
Metal Cowboy: Tales from the Road Less Pedaled (1999)
Kurmaskie, Joe
917.3 K968m
Miles from Nowhere: A Round the World Bicycle Adventure (1983)
Savage, Barbara
910.4 S263m
Put Me Back on My Bike: In Search of Tom Simpson (2003)
Fotheringham, William
796.62 S61f
The Rider (2002)
Krabbe, Tim
FIC
A Rough Ride: An Insight into Pro Cycling (1990)
Kimmage, Paul
796.62 K49r
Traffic Life: Passionate Tales and Exit Strategies: An Anthology (2004)
Wehner, Stephan, ed.
c820.8 T76w
Maintenance and Repair
Barnett’s Manual: Analysis and Procedures for Bicycle Mechanics, 4 vol. set (2003)
Barnett, John
629.2272 B26b
Bicycle Repair Manual (2004)
Sidwells, Chris
629.2272 S56b
Bicycle Repair: Step by Step: The Full-Color Manual of Bicycle Maintenance and Repair (1995)
Van de Plas, Rob
629.2272 P71br1
Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 3rd ed. (2001)
Zinn, Lennard
629.2272 Z78z1
Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (2000)
Zinn, Lennard
629.2272 Z78zr
Technology
The Bicycle (1996)
Dodge, Pryor
629.2272 D64b
5
The Bicycle: Boneshakers, Highwheelers, and Other Celebrated Cycles (2002)
King, Gilbert
629.2272 K52b
Bicycle: The History (2004)
Herlihy, David V.
629.2272 H54b
Bicycling Science (2004)
Wilson, David Gordon
629.2272 W62b2
The Most Benevolent Machine: A Historical Assessment of Cycles in Canada (1998)
Babaian, Sharon Anne
629.2272 B11m
The Noblest Invention: An Illustrated History of the Bicycle (2003)
629.2272 B583n
Training Guides
Bicycle Road Racing: Complete Program for Training and Competition (1985)
Borysewicz, Edward
796.62 B73b
The Cyclist’s Training Bible (2003)
Friel, Joe
796.6 F91c1
High-tech Cycling, 2nd ed (2003)
Burke, Ed (ed)
796.6 B959h1
The Long Distance Cyclist’s Handbook (2001)
Doughty, Simon
796.62 D73L
b. MAGAZINES
Current issues of these magazines are held in the Literature and Social Science Division on Level
3 of the Central Library. You can request issues that are more than two years old in the
Newspapers and Magazines Division on Level 5. Most of these magazines cannot be borrowed.
Bicycling (11 per year; 1974 – present)
Ref. 799.71 B58
• Circulating copies are available at many branch libraries
Bicycling. Bike Buyer’s Guide (annual; 2000 – present)
Ref. 629.227205 B58 (Located in the Consumer Information area on Level 4)
6
Mountain Bike Action (monthly; 1992 – present)
Ref. 796.605 M9281
• Circulating copies available at Central in the Teen section (Level 2) and at Dunbar branch
Mountain Biking (monthly; 1992 – present)
Ref. 796.605 M928
Pedal (bi-monthly; 1991 – present)
Ref. 796.6205 P37
Urbane Cyclist (quarterly; 2000 – present)
Ref. 388.409711 U72
Velo-news (20 per year; 1993 – present)
Ref. 796.6205 V44
• Also available on the Internet at: http://www.velonews.com/
c. VIDEOS/DVDs
Anybody’s Bike Video (Bicycle Repair) (1986)
629.2272 C98an (Video)
• Shows both on-the-road and home bicycle repairs.
Breaking Away (1979)
791.4372 B8285y (DVD)
• Four working-class boys in Indiana challenge the college kids to a bicycle race.
Fundamentals of Bicycle Touring (1994)
796.6 F98a (Video)
• Includes what to take, planning your route, packing your bike, riding techniques, camping
on tour, and more.
Lance Armstrong: Racing for His Life (2001)
796.62 A73sm (Video)
796.62 A73sm1 (DVD)
• Tells the story of Lance Armstrong, American bicycle racer and cancer survivor.
Performance Mountain Biking (1996)
796.63 P43a (Video)
• A fast paced instructional video with tips from general safety to drills to improve ability.
Shifting Gears: A Look at Alternative Transportation (2001)
388.3472 S55f (Video)
• Challenges our day-to-day urban transportation decisions and looks at cycling as a mode of
transportation.
7
Stars and Watercarriers: The Story of the 1973 Giro d’Italia; The Impossible Hour: The Race for
the Record Hour (2001)
796.62 S796L(DVD)
• Chronicles both the 1973 Giro d’Italia (Tour of Italy) bicycle race and Danish racing star Ole
Ritter as he tries to regain his record from Eddy Merckx for the hour ride.
IV. Websites
Local/National
Better Environmentally Sound Transportation (BEST)
• http://www.best.bc.ca/
Innovative programs to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and climate change, and to
inform about the environmental, health and community issues surrounding transportation.
BC Superweek
• http://www.bcsuperweek.com
Nine days of great cycling in British Columbia; Tour de Delta, Tour de Gastown, and Tour
de White Rock.
Bike Sense
• http://www.bikesense.bc.ca/
This is the online version of the British Columbia Operator’s Manual.
British Columbia Cycling Coalition
• http://www.bccc.bc.ca/
Links to many cycling websites. Includes B.C. Transportation links (ie. bus routes with bike
racks; traveling on B.C. Ferries), B.C. Bicycle Helmet Study, Bicycling Magazine (they have
a Bike-Finder section), and a library with bicyle related reports.
Canadian Cycling Association
• http://www.canadian-cycling.com/English/home.htm
CCA leads and supports the development and growth of cycling in Canada through
programs, leadership development and technical expertise.
CaptainBike.com
• http://www.sheldonbrown.com/articles.html
Bicycle repair articles by Sheldon Brown and others. Part of Harris Cyclery website that lists
accessories, bicycles, parts and tools for bikes.
Cycling BC
• http://www.cycling.bc.ca/
Cycling BC is the provincial governing body for the sport of cycling. It represents the full
range of disciplines including Road, Track & Cyclo-cross, Mountain Biking and BMX.
8
Cycling Information
• http://www.th.gov.bc.ca/popular-topics/cycling/bicycle.htm
From the Ministry of Transportation, find out about cycling restrictions on B.C. roads, the
law about helmets, and the rights and duties of the bicyle rider.
Dizzy Chicks
• http://www.dizzychicks.com/
Vancouver-based women’s cycling club dedicated to promoting health, fitness and fun for
all ages and abilities.
MOMentum Magazine
• http://www.momentumplanet.ca/index.htm
A local online bicycling magazine.
Pez Cycling News
• http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/
Entertaining and in depth pro bike racing news.
• Vancouver Area Cycling Coalition (VACC)
• http://www.vacc.bc.ca/
Advocates for transportation cycling in the Vancouver-Lower Mainland area.
Vancouver Bicycle Club
• http://www.vbc.bc.ca/
Recreational club that organizes road and mountain bike day rides and tours.
International
53×12.com
• http://www.53X12.com
Training site written by Dr. Michele Ferrari
Cyclingnews
• http://www.cyclingnews.com/
Professional cycle racing news and results. The Teams Database is searchable for all
riders employed by professional teams registered with the International Cycling Union.
Tour de France (English version)
• http://www.letour.fr/indexus.html
Same-day race coverage, news, features, and user forums.
If you require any assistance with these resources, please ask the Information staff in
Science and Business on Level 4 at the Central Library
Science and Business Division – Level 4
February 2006

A Bicycle User Group Guide

No Attribution — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 21:41:23 +0000

A Bicycle User Group Guide
Acknowledgements:
This Guide was produced with the financial support of the TravelWise program of
the former Regional Municipality of Ottawa-Carleton, the generous assistance of
members of several Ottawa Bicycle User Groups (BUGs) as well as dedicated
volunteers from Citizens for Safe Cycling.
All photos appearing in this Guide are courtesy of Brett Delmage.
BUGs at Work!
A Bicycle User Group Guide
Table of Contents
1.0 Introduction …………………………………………………………………………….. 2
2.0 The Ins and Outs of BUGs ……………………………………………………….. 2
2.1 What is a BUG? ……………………………………………………………… 2
2.2 Why start a BUG? …………………………………………………………… 3
2.3 How to start a BUG …………………………………………………………. 4
2.4 Sustaining a BUG …………………………………………………………… 8
3.0 Presenting your case to your employer ………………………………………. 10
3.1 Why should your employer support a BUG ……………………….. 11
3.2 How can your employer can support BUGs at work ……………. 12
3.3 Approaching building managers ………………………………………. 13
Appendices
I. BUG promotional samples (posters, e-mails) ……………………………… 14
II. Commuter Cyclist survey samples ……………………………………………. 17
III. Bicycle Parking at the Work ……………………………………………… 20
IV. Shower and Change Facilities ………………………………………. 24
V. Bicycle Traffic Safety ……………………………………………….. 26
VI. Bicycle Basics …………………………………………………….. 29
VII. Specific Cycling Tips ………………………………………… 32
VIII. Cyclist Recruitment ……………………………………….. 34
IX. Cycling Bits and Pieces ……………………………….. 38
X. Resources ……………………………………………….. 40
1
1. 0 INTRODUCTION
First things first. Who is this guide for? This guide is aimed at commuter cyclists who wish to join
efforts with other cyclists at their workplace to improve facilities for cyclists and who would like to
work at eliminating barriers that are keeping others from commuting by bicycle. What is ‘BUGs at
Work’ about? In a nutshell, the guide will provide:
1. Practical tips on starting a Bicycle User Group (BUG) at your workplace
2. Essential information on maintaining a BUG
3. Resources useful to BUG members and potential cyclists as well as tools with which to encourage
your employer to be proactive with respect to commuter cyclists.
There are also appendices with lists of locker retailers, websites, cycling safety tips and much more
commuter cycling information that is invaluable for both experienced and beginner cyclists.
2.0 THE INS AND OUTS OF BUGs
2.1 What is a BUG?
It is social, it can move fast and it can be
persistent but that is about all a BUG has
in common with an insect. A BUG is one
of the best ways to support and encourage
cycle commuting at the workplace. How
do they originate? Often a BUG is formed
by employees who want to improve workplace
facilities for cyclists. We have all, at
some point, complained about inadequate
bicycle racks, lack of showers and how to
get others out of their cars and into the
saddle. BUGs are one effective way to
turn complaints into positive action.
The term “BUG” for Bicycle User Group
was first coined by some bicycle commuters
at the Royal Ontario Museum in
Toronto. They had come together to organize a single bicycle project but the group slowly transformed
into all year round, bicycle-using and bicycle-promoting organization. Since then, many
BUGs have formed for many different reasons. Many BUGs work towards getting better parking
and shower facilities at their workplaces. Other BUGs organize Bike to Work days or other bicycle
commuter activities with work colleagues. Some are involved in transportation planning and/or policy
change at their workplace.
Size doesn’t matter…
Some BUGs are big and electronically connected. The CIBC BUG in Toronto has over 120
2
members who communicate by office e-mail. There are also a few “BUGs of one” in which one person
simply acts as a provider of info and resources to colleagues or BUG members. And there are
all sizes and raison d’etre in between.
2.2 Why start a BUG and what can a BUG accomplish?
If you have a beef, almost certainly some other employees share it. By starting a BUG, you can
gather like-minded people who support cycling at your workplace and will ultimately encourage
decision makers to provide and/or improve facilities. Still need more convincing to start a BUG?
Here are just some of the many reasons to start a BUG at the workplace:
1. Pedalling influence and starting projects
One of the main reasons to form a BUG is to influence those who can improve bicycle facilities at
your workplace. If you’ve ever tried to convince a store owner or a local politician to install bicycle
facilities, you’ll know that it’s difficult on your own. Many hands not only make lighter work, but they
also have much more clout. Having a group of cyclists at work who are ready to tackle a specific
project can make it happen. Furthermore, if you have a great idea, but not all the skills or resources
to make it happen on your own, then a BUG can be a forum for airing these ideas and putting them
into action.
2. Provide expertise
BUGs provide an easy source of expertise when human resources or building facility managers
want to upgrade or change facilities. Managers may not want to consult just one outspoken commuter
cyclist; a group may be much more approachable and credible. A BUG also ensures that
everyone’s needs have been considered. For example, when a new bicycle rack is being planned,
a BUG can assure that it will accommodate both a 6’4″ technician and a 5’0″engineer.
Expert Route Advice
NORBUG and the informal bicycle user group at Watchfire Ottawa have found that by simply
offering route advice and posting cycling maps around the office, they have attracted
attention and provided a useful service to other cyclists.
3. Promoting cycling
Having a BUG as a central cycling information
source also provides a very personalized forum
for other people to get inspired, involved, and
informed about commuter cycling. This can range
from having some cycling maps and pamphlets
available at your desk or on a bulletin board, to
having a commuter cyclist forum on your office email
or organizing an event for BUG members
and other interested people in your workplace.
One of the important functions of a BUG at any
workplace is overcoming some of the psychological
barriers faced by would-be cyclists. BUGs
raise the profile of cyclists and therefore can ‘normalize’
the image of cyclists at the workplace.
3
4. A social venue
Sometimes a BUG performs a social function. It can serve to organize rides, gettogethers,
and social events among people who cycle or would like to cycle. Bringing
in successful local BUGs in the area can also be the focus of a social event. Or how
about organizing a CAN-bike course to bring cyclists together at the workplace?
2.3 HOW TO START A BUG?
There are several approaches depending on your environment at the workplace. Does a ‘green’
attitude already exist at the workplace? Ideally, if you have the ear of cyclists in upper management
or in the property management company, you should solicit their involvement. Initial ‘buy-in’
from someone in management can definitely facilitate the formation and activities of a BUG. For
instance, employers like Mountain Equipment Co-op or Export Development Corporation, who are
already convinced of the benefits of supporting commuter cyclists, are much more likely to entertain
proposals and suggestions brought forth by a BUG than a company or a building manager where
such an environmental corporate culture is absent. But even if it is not in the corporate culture,
BUG start-up is easy! Below are suggested steps in starting up a BUG:
1. Identify interested cyclists
How? You could approach other commuter cyclists in person as you leave or arrive at work with
your bicycle. Too shy? You could leave a note on bicycles parked outside your workplace. For
instance, NORBUG members stickered bicycles (paper and staples only) at Nortel sites during the
annual Commuter Challenge. Alternatively, then you can try the e-mail route (if this is allowed at
your workplace) or for the ambitious, you can create an internal website like NORBUG does. See
Appendix I for a sample e-mail that could introduce the idea of a BUG to your co-workers. No
access to e-mail at your workplace? If there is a workplace newsletter, insert a notice about starting
a BUG with your contact information. You could also post a note on an employee noticeboard.
While initially you probably want to focus on existing commuter cyclists for the formation of a BUG,
there may well be those who would cycle given different conditions and encouragement. You could
use the same approaches to solicit their interest at a later date.
Western BUGs
Here are some ideas that have worked for BUGs in Vancouver. They have put up posters
in rest rooms and in the parking garage. Others have set up an information booth in their
workplace lobby and created a simple cafeteria display. Some BUGs have convinced their
human resources department to insert BUG information sheets with company pay
cheques. One BUG was especially creative and shot a simple video of staff cycling which,
with humourous accompaniment, was shown to staff members at lunch.
2. Hold a short meeting
Once you have identified interested people, chose a date and time for your first meeting.
Remember to keep it short since people are unlikely to give up large amounts of their free time.
Circulate an agenda prior to the meeting so that the objectives of the meeting are well defined. This
will help towards a short and directed meeting. You could include brief introductions (circulate a
name and contact information sheet) and some time to set out goals of your BUG (you can do this
by identifying everyone’s concerns, then focussing on the most common ones).
4
Your BUG will likely easily come up with a set of
goals to accomplish, but in case you are looking
for more ideas:
• secure, easily-accessible, visible and welllit
bicycle parking, bicycle lockers or a
caged-off area
• sufficient numbers of showers, changing
facilities or lockers for cycle clothing
• suitable levels of travel expenses for cycle
journeys in work time
• policies that encourage cycling, including
casual dress on Fridays, use of a company
car if needed during the work day for
company business or ride arrangements if
a cyclist has an emergency and doesn’t
have a car at work
• flexible work hours for cyclist commuters
• reimbursement for the subsidized cost of providing free car parking for employees
One issue at a time!
The bicycle user group at Environment Canada (St. Joseph Blvd., Hull) location believes in
tackling issues one by one. For instance, first there was the issue of insufficient bicycle
racks. One active member surveyed the use of the indoor parking for motorists for one
week during the summer and found that on average 35 spots were unused. With much
persistence and a turn of events (where bicycle parking spots were actually reduced to
accommodate a generator leaving the parking managers in a compensation position),
there are now 5 parking spots with bicycle racks for use over the summer. Next issue -
ventilation in the shower facilities!
3. Volunteers
Identify a core group of volunteers who would be interested in working on strategies to present
these ideas to management. This step might take longer than one meeting. Rather than have one
long meeting, hold several short ones. It is also important to remember that not everyone is an
activist. Those who are interested in the idea of a BUG at the workplace may not be necessarily be
interested in participating in projects. Still their support is necessary and is important in lobbying
management.
High-tech volunteers!
Watchfire Ottawa is a dynamic start-up in the region with some very dynamic cyclists who
form the core of an informal fledgling bicycle user group. It all started by posting bicycle
maps, offering route advice and e-mailing fellow employees during the cycling season.
Since the company consists of young and active professionals, the promotion of cycling
should meet with enthusiasm in the coming years.
4. Support from management
Gain support from management if possible. Locate someone in management who cycles or at least
recognizes the benefits of cycling and ask them to either represent your group or advise you on the
best approach for presenting your ideas and suggestions to management.
5
Not just management!
If you are in a large private or public organization, it might be a good idea to nurture your
contacts in all departments that might have input into bicycle facilities and issues. NORBUG
members maintained a good working relationship with Nortel’s facilities people and
found keen cyclists as representatives for their different sites. They also kept a current list
of important people and their contact information.
5. Workplace survey and site inventory
Assessing what facilities exist and thus, what the needs are at your workplace can be done
through a site inventory. Knowing your workplace cycling facility statistics (including an approximate
number of cyclists and potential cyclists) will be useful background information for your BUG. If you
have some time and a few volunteers at your disposal, a survey of the cyclists and facilities at your
workplace can be extremely important (see Appendix II). Surveys, in addition to your BUG member
discussions, can help you fine-tune your goals. For instance, is it reasonable to except to attract
one-third of the employees to commute by bicycle when 80% live more than five miles away?
Survey results can carry a lot of weight in convincing your managers or property managers that bicycle
facilities need improvement. What about surveying non-cyclists in order to determine how many
potential cyclists there could be given different conditions? (See Appendix II for a sample survey)
The CMHC BUG conducted a cyclist/runner/exercise survey by e-mail and on paper, to determine
locker room usage and requirements. Armed with the results of this survey and other
well thought out arguments, the BUG presented an excellent case to management. Although
the initial plans proposed a men’s change room with reduced facilities, lobbying by cyclists
and runners convinced management to appropriately expand the space allocated for lockers.
6. Setting priorities
Your meetings should eventually result in specific goals and a set
of priorities that your BUG wants to pursue. While everyone’s
needs may not be addressed at once, assure all BUG members
that their concerns will be brought forward to management once
the first set of priorities have been presented.
7. Background research and statistics
With your list (keep it reasonable) of issues to be addressed by
management, you will also need some research into the feasability
and economics of the solutions (e.g. the costs of lockers or
installing showers). This requires some time but the resources in
the appendices of this guide as well as discussions with existing
BUGs should help.
What have some BUGs asked for?
The CBC BUG in Toronto secured the resources to provide tools and other bicycle repair
equipment for cycling employees. More locally, the CMHC (Canadian Mortgage and
Housing Corporation) BUG rallied around the plans by management to renovate the men’s
locker room. By approaching the facilities planning group and the “Active Living” committee
with a cyclist-friendly proposal, the CMHC BUG was able to negotiate a very acceptable
and economically feasible alternative. Now their men’s locker room has a mix of half
6
and full lockers with another room across the hall holding full lockers.
8. The Meeting
Presenting your ideas to management is the most important step. Here are
some suggestions for your first presentation:
• Book an appointment (set the time and length).
• Your BUG may choose to have a copy of your action plan ready for distribution (the
presentation may need to be discussed with other colleagues), although you may want to
be less formal.
• Be ready to answer questions from management (e.g. financial outlay, space, etc.).
• Grants may be available from the local council or environmental groups. Not all cycling
improvements require financial outlay. Some may even save the organisation money.
• Be positive when you’re selling the benefits of cycling.
• Show that support for cycling exists within the organisation (i.e. management will pay attention
to survey results).
• Present information about how good cycling is for staff, the organisation and the community.
Stress the cost effectiveness of cycling. The organisation may also benefit from favourable
local press that a BUG could attract
• Fix the next meeting date.
Government vs. Private
It may be much easier to approach management in private industry or organization than in
government. At least that has been the experience of the bicycle user group at
Environment Canada. Different bodies are responsible for shower installation, lockers and
for bicycle parking. Just tracking down who to talk to can take a lot of time. And then
there are the intricacies of government budgets. What if there is no specific budget allocated
to bicycle racks? In that case, it is likely that your BUG will have to fundraise unless
someone in upper management takes initiative. Another big vs. small perspective comes
from NORBUG whose members have found that once they were part of the corporate
process (which took a lot of lobbying!), they were consistently consulted for such things as
new building construction.
If your initial proposal isn’t accepted, don’t give up. Perhaps you may need to adjust your objectives
and re-think your approach. Did you overwhelm management with too many issues at once?
Focussing on one issue may be your best option. Whatever you do, be persistent. These are wise
words from the members of the Environment Canada bicycle user group who know that perseverance
pays off. They have slowly and sometimes, painstakingly, tackled one issue at a time (i.e. first
indoor bicycle parking, then lockers and showers and coming next – ventilation), but with results!
The Commuter Challenge helps launch the EC Riders!
The bicycle user group at Environment Canada (St. Joseph Blvd., Hull location) was born
when a few interested cyclists used the annual Commuter Challenge as a way to launch
their own one day Cyclist Challenge. Posters were put up and news of the challenge was
spread by word of mouth. The end result was 40 cyclists who became part of the group.
Since that time the group has grown to about 100 members over 6 years. It has remained
an informal group that communicates mostly by e-mail and is issue-oriented.
7
BUG achievers!
One of Ottawa’s BUG success stories is the bicycle
user group at Nortel – NORBUG. It was created in the
early 1990′s by some very keen cyclists. Initially it
existed as an e-mail list whose members received
monthly newsletters in the cycling season which
included names of bicycle shops, route information,
bicycle facilities and security information. Since its
humble beginnings NORBUG has achieved a lot. Now
there is bicycle parking and showers at almost every
Nortel site.
2.4 A BUG IS BORN! HOW TO SUSTAIN IT?
Once an issue has been moved forward and a solution has been successfully implemented, your
BUG might lose momentum or key BUG organizers may retire or leave the workplace for other reasons.
These are inevitable events that can result in waning interest in the BUG, and sometimes
even the total shutdown. Unfortunately, there are usually other cycling issues that come up at the
workplace and having an organized group ready to address them is invaluable. A BUG will have better
chances at survival with a significant number of members. The more members a BUG has, the
easier it is to get members, and to get things done.
Western Ways
There are many things your BUG can do to maintain its membership and even attract new
members. Looking out west to what Vancouver BUGs have done, might provide some
food for thought. If you have management support for a BUG at the workplace, as these
Vancouver BUGs did, you could for instance, arrange for massages for commuter cyclists
or for discounts on the purchase of bicycles, parts and service at a nearby bicycle shop.
In order to keep your BUG going and to attract members to the BUG, try some of the following easy
ideas:
1. Offer something and advertise the benefits of a BUG membership! For instance you can produce
leaflets or an e-mail newsletter that talk about improved cycling facilities, social activities, cyclingrelated
information, CAN-BIKE courses, discounts in local bicycle shops as well as cycling safety
and/or maintenance classes.
CAN-BIKE and BUGs
Residents of the Ottawa area are lucky to have
access to the wide variety of CAN-BIKE courses
offered by Citizens for Safe Cycling. From intensive
cycling safety courses to introductory short
courses, they are all designed to increase cyclists’
confidence in traffic. A BUG can organize several
CAN-BIKE courses at the workplace – for seasoned
cyclists and for beginners. The courses will not
8
only attract more members to your BUG but also give you more resources to work with as
a commuter cyclist.
2. Make it rewarding! Very few people become advocates or
volunteers unless it is rewarding. Work out how to reward
people with recognition, fun events and other incentives. You
could include a BUG award with your company’s annual recognition
awards.
3. Make it easy to join! Always have a contact name, phone
number, e-mail address and meeting place. Most BUGs are
free. If your BUG wants to charge a membership fee such
subscriptions could cover costs of locker facilities, newsletters,
CAN-BIKE courses and social events. The fees should not be
so high as to deter potential members (e.g. $2 – $5). If possible,
have your Human Resources department mention your
BUG as a company activity during new employee orientation,
along with other activities such as ultimate frisbee and softball.
4. Take advantage of events where you can promote cycling,
whether an employer-sponsored health fair or a relocation of
employees to a new building. Involve your BUG and therefore,
your company, in the local annual Commuter Challenge.
Still Recalling Recumbents!
In conjunction with other events, NORBUG would promote
cycling by showcasing a Bike Friday or a recumbent bike.
Employees still recall those events. So if your BUG knows
someone with an interesting cycling show and tell, it could
prove to be a good draw for other employees.
5. Provide cycling information! Have copies of brochures with cycling
information, laws, bicycling tips, safety , etc. available at an obvious
location (e.g. lunchroom). You can obtain many of these resources
from Citizens for Safe Cycling (see Appendix X).
6. Have regular social events or meetings to keep up the momentum! This allows new members to
get easily involved. You could, for instance, have an inter-departmental cycling challenge, host a
cyclist breakfast or a group commute with work colleagues from your area of residence.
7. Get members involved! Ask them to help (without overwhelming them) and be specific with
the tasks you would like them to complete. Studies show that the most common reason people
don’t contribute volunteer time or donate money is because they were never actually asked.
The Name Game
Members of the bicycle user group at Environment Canada had a bright idea last summer.
They felt that giving their group a name would personalize it more and would provide an
opportunity to involve not only its members but also new cyclists. They set up a contest
9
for a name for their bicycle user group. Potential names were submitted and posted.
Then everyone who was interested cast their vote. What was in it for them? Not only a
new name but also a designer T-shirt (with the new name of the group and logo)to the winning
name and a random draw from all those who voted. The end result? A new name -
ECRiders and more interest in the group!
What else?
Knowing why your BUG exists is also important in terms of promoting your group to potential members.
People may be deterred if a group has no clear vision. The latter can be clarified by defining
a mission statement. What is your BUG seeking to accomplish? Have a brain- storming session
with core BUG members to figure this out before involving
more people. After this you should be able to articulate
your mission to others in simple words.
Cyclists who join a BUG do so for a particular reason. It
may be because they have a genuine interest in improving
cycling facilities at the work place, or they might enjoy
being a member of a group which organizes great social
events and fun rides. It is important to determine why it
was people joined in the first place, and to establish what
their objectives were. A good way to do this is to include
such questions on a membership form (if you have one,
or on a quick questionnaire at your first meeting). It is
only when the BUG understands why people joined that it
can plot the best course of action to keep them as members. It is crucial to maintain the interest of
members. If a BUG does not fulfil this requirement, members may leave.
3.0 PRESENTING YOUR CASE TO YOUR EMPLOYER
So you have started a BUG at work? Now it’s time for action. If your BUG has formed in large part
to change conditions at the workplace, then you need arguments, factual and convincing, as well as
being able to point to other employers who are supportive of their commuter cyclists. We have provided
some ideas and examples that will, hopefully, help you on the road to converting management
to the commuter cyclist cause.
‘We were subsidizing people who drive to work with free parking, and realized it’s not sensible to
support one type of commute over another. If your goal is to improve everyone’s commute,
you’ve got to support biking and walking as well.’
- Bill William, Training and Development Manager, The Calvert Group.
If, like many workplaces, active transportation is not part of the corporate culture at your workplace,
then there is work to do. This may be easier if your workplace is located downtown where many
employees and even management may already live. Living and working away from a very accessible
downtown core can put more limits on what you can ask for as a BUG.
10
3.1 Why should employers support commuter cyclists?
1. Reduced Health Care Costs
As with other physical exercise, cycling benefits the heart and lungs, lowers blood pressure, and
helps with weight control. There are many studies that indicate healthy employees contribute to savings
for company health plans as well as to the public health care system. For instance, cycling to
work can save up to 12% in annual medical costs, according to the Centers for Disease Control in
the U.S. A 35 year-old man cycling 12 miles a day extends his life expectancy by two-and-a-half
years compared with someone who does not exercise, says the British Medical Association.
Export Development Corporation, an employer of nearly 1000 people, knows exactly why
they should support active lifestyles. Management is convinced that by offering fitness
facilities and encouraging active transportation, such as cycling, they will not only have
healthier and more productive employees but will also keep their current employees and
attract new ones more easily.
2. Decreased Absenteeism and Turnover
Physical fitness has a direct effect on employee absenteeism. A study from the U.S. National
Center for Health Statistics found that physically active employees resulted in a significantly lower
absentee rate – an average of 2 days per year.
3. Increased Productivity
It is well known that exercise reduces stress. Many cyclists
and walkers report feeling relaxed and more alert after arriving
at work. Automobile drivers generally arrive at work with higher
stress levels and blood pressure, lower tolerance, greater
likelihood of negative moods and aggression. Freed from bus
timetables and traffic jams, employees travelling by bicycle
arrive on time.
4. Reduced Parking Costs
Automobile parking for employees costs money. By encouraging
alternative means of transport, the cost savings per year
for management or the property managers can be substantial.
5. Lower Company Transportation Bills
Many short trips on company business could easily be made
by bicycle. Encourage your employer to think of the savings in taxi and bus fares, and car travel
payments, in return for payment of a reasonable cycle mileage allowance. If your workplace were to
provide a company bicycle and a cash alternative it could encourage more employees to forego a
company car, thus cutting the cost of that scheme. Company cars are now a much less attractive
‘perk’ than they used to be. You could also discuss possible tax breaks for cyclists with your
employer. For example, employees in the Netherlands have the options of spending their pre-tax
dollars on a new bicycle, thus reducing the total amount of taxable income.
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A ‘greener’ corporate image
In these competitive times, forward thinking companies are keen to promote a ‘green’
image as a means to tapping into the potential market of environmentally aware
consumers. A pro-cycling policy will not only enhance a company’s green credentials with
customers but also with potential employees.
3.2 How can your employer support cyclists at the workplace?
Management will have influence or control over what facilities are provided for cyclists at the workplace.
This includes bicycle storage rooms, bicycle racks, lockers, shower facilities and / or clothes
storage. Employers can also provide many incentives to encourage employees to cycle commute.
For instance, they can recognize cyclists at company functions, offer flex-time schedules so that
cycle commuters can avoid peak traffic hours and permit a relaxed dress code. Other employers
have awarded employees who cycle to work points which can be redeemed for prizes. Some have
offered financial assistance to help purchase a bicycle or bicycle accessories, given cash back to
cyclists for part or all of their unused parking spaces and allowed bicycle commuters extra time for
showering and changing after arriving at work.
Another Idea
Employees at Social Research and Development
Corporation (SRDC), a centretown Ottawa company of
about 20 employees, used the annual Commuter
Challenge to “encourage” a few executives to forego
their parking spaces and take the bus or cycle to
work. Since this was a team activity, they were willing
to oblige and thus began the ‘green’ corporate culture
at SRDC.
Mountain Equipment Co-op walks (cycles) the talk!
In Ottawa, MEC offers indoor, secure bicycle storage,
staff lockers, 2 showering facilities, a bicycle repair
stand and bicycle repair tool kit, as well as bicycle
repair manuals. That’s not all, on a casual basis, the
store offers free or very low cost bicycle repair seminars
for staff given by an experienced staff member.
Other incentives that employers could offer:
• policies that encourage cycling such as the use of company cars for business-related trip that
cannot be cycled
• ride home insurance (ride arrangements if an employee can’t cycle home for some unforeseen
reason)
• time off to take CAN-BIKE courses and possibly subsidizing the cost as well
• interest-free loans or subsidies for the purchase of a bicycle or cycling equipment and clothing
• a repair kit for flat tires and other tools or equipment for emergency repairs to be kept at the
workplace, or an arrangement for repairs at a local bicycle shop
• reimburse your cyclists for using their bicycles on company business. The allowance should
be on a cent-per-kilometre basis and should ideally match the rate offered for using a small car
12
Bringing CAN-BIKE to the workplace!
A Hewlett Packard facility in Britain ran a well-attended
cycling safety course for adult cyclists in partnership
with a local bicycle shop that loaned bicycles to novice
cyclists. The course resulted in greater cyclist confidence
and in more commuter cyclists at the workplace!
A BUG at the workplace, in conjunction with employersponsored
CAN-BIKE courses can provide positive reinforcement
for existing cyclists and lure more potential
cyclists into the wonderful world of commuter cycling.
3.3 Approaching building managers
In some cases, particularly in downtown Ottawa, your employer may have limited say about bicycle
facilities in your building if the building is managed by property management firm. Similar to the
approach you would use with company management, a survey of cyclists (in this case in the entire
building) would lend strength to your case to the property mangers. Economic arguments are
always useful to support your case to a property manager. By providing bicycle facilities, property
managers will have a positive environmental image to present to potential tenants.
A far-sighted property manager!
In Burnaby, Pioneer Pacific Property Management manages Station Tower and has implemented
a program known as TravelChoices which was commissioned by the developer of
the building. By promoting a trip reduction program to 700 employees of 30 different
organizations, the developer was able to save costs on 50 parking spots, totalling
$500,000. How does it work? Pioneer Pacific Property Management has provided showers
and secure bicycle lockers, free access to nearby fitness facilities (including showers
and lockers), TravelChoices members have guaranteed ride home insurance and there is a
TravelBucks incentive program that gives members one TravelBuck for each day they use
alternative transportation to and from work (TravelBucks can be exchanged for prizes
such as free coffee, transit FareSaver Tickets, ski passes and rental car certificates). The
employee participation rate? Nearly 50%!
In Conclusion…..
Bicycle User Groups are definitely not new. In fact, they have been around for a long time in various
forms and have been successful in rallying support for improved conditions for workplace cyclists.
History shows that there are real benefits that a workplace BUG can provide, including greater
cyclist support, a sense of community and enhanced employee/employer relations. Nonetheless,
BUG start-up requires some time and effort. With a small group of dedicated volunteers, you can
accomplish many things from installing secure bicycle parking to implementing flexible work hours
for cyclists. A BUG can be a small, low-input group that primarily responds to cyclists needs or it
can evolve into a larger, well-organized group that acts not only as a lobbying organization but also
as a social focus for employees. No matter the size why not get BUGged at your workplace? This
“BUGs at Work” user guide will get you started. One of the best resources in the Ottawa when it
comes to cycling information is Citizens for Safe Cycling. So, if you need more details on BUGs or
have other cycling questions don’t hesitate to phone (613)567-1288 or e-mail
promo@cfsc.ottawa.on.ca.
13
Appendix I
BUG promotional samples
Sample e-mail (if you have access to e-mail at your workplace) or letter to fellow employee cyclists
Dear Fellow Cyclist:
I am writing to you as some of us are planning to form a Bicycle User Group (BUG) at [company
name or department or branch], to encourage our management to develop better bicycle facilities
at work.
We have arranged a meeting for interested cyclists to discuss cycling issues of mutual concern.
The meeting will be held on:
Date: Monday, 20th March 2003
Time: 12:30 – 1:00 p.m.
Place: Boardroom A
Contact: Susan Waller (ext. 2039)
We are arranging this meeting, and the formation of a BUG, as we believe there are several local
cycling issues of concern to commuter cyclists and other interested employees of [company name
or branch], such as:
- the need for secure bicycle parking
- the need for shower facilities or access to them
We think that these issues as well as others that may arise can best be resolved through employee
action and participation, and proactive proposals to management. We invite you to attend this
important meeting and hope you will raise additional matters of concern to you and fellow employees.
Included is a suggested agenda for the meeting. This contains ideas gleaned during conversations
with various cycling-oriented people during recent months.
We hope to see you at the meeting,
Regards,
Susan Waller
on behalf of other interested cyclists
14
The Bicycle User Group Program
Do you cycle to work?
Would you like to cycle to work
but are worried about traffic?
Would you cycle to work
if you had an experienced cyclist to guide you?
Have you considered joining a
Bicycle User Group here at work?
NOVICE AND EXPERIENCED
CYCLISTS!!
Sign up here today to be matched with a bike buddy!
Name Area Phone E-mail Leave Leave Experienced/
of Residence (Work) time(am) time (pm) Novice Cyclist
15
Sample Flyer for posting around the building or leaving on bicycles
Let’s Make Our Workplace
Bicycle Friendly
A workplace Bicycle User Group (BUG) will be starting at [company name or
department or branch] very soon.
What is a BUG? A group of cyclists and supporter of cycling who want to
improve conditions for cyclists. What do BUGs do? They can influence workplace
management to improve bicycle parking facilities, provide showers and
lockers. BUGs can also make suggestions to management about incentives for
promoting active transportation to and from work.
There are many successful BUGs already established in the Ottawa area and
many more in Ontario and worldwide. They have managed to convince their
employers to promote cycling at the workplace by providing flexible schedules,
company bicycles, secure bicycle parking and extra days off, to name a few.
A meeting of interested cyclists and non-cyclists will be held in Boardroom A,
2nd floor on Monday, 20th February 2002 at 4:30 p.m.
Everyone is welcome to the meeting. Tell your fellow cyclists about it and pencil
it in on your calendar now!
For more information contact Susan Waller at:
e-mail: swaller@intranet.org
phone: x 2930
in person: Cubicle A-20
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Appendix II
Commuter Cyclist Survey Samples
Parking Area Excellent Satisfactory Unacceptable
1. Close to an entrance used by cyclists
2. Visible and secure
3. Separated from cars to avoid damage to bicycle or injury to cyclists
4. Adequately lit
5. Protected from the weather
6. Free from disturbance by sprinkler, lawn mowing or snowplow
7. Roomy enough to allow manoeuvering
8. Room to expand
Bicycle Racks
9. Easy and obvious to use by different sizes and shapes of bicycles
10. Allows the use of a U-lock
11. Supports the frame of the bicycle when loading panniers
and does not bend wheels
12. Securely anchored to the ground or the wall
13. Room for locking bicycle trailers
14. Placed to avoid tripping pedestrians
15. Sufficient parking space for the demand
16. Are maintained in good condition
Other Facilities
17. Shower and change facilities
18. Lockable lockers to store cycle gear, clothing, toiletries and
towels
19. Fair locker allocation system
Support at the Workplace
20. Commuter cycling is an accepted part of the corporate culture
21. Cycling is in the corporate transportation and parking policy
22. Bicycle facilities and encouragement initiatives are budgeted
as a normal cost of doing business
23. Cyclists are renumerated for work related travel
24. Cycling is linked with related corporate goals such as workplace
fitness, environmental concerns and team spirit
25. Recognition is given to those who bicycle commute on a
regular basis
26. High profile corporate personalities bicycle to work
27. The number of employee car parking spaces is limited
28. Commuter cyclists are portrayed as normal people who use
cycling as part of an attractive, active lifestyle
29. How well have such cycling-friendly programs as OC Transpo’s
Rack’n Roll program been promoted at your workplace?
17
A survey designed for non-cyclists or those who cycle infrequently
(adapted from BEST – Bicycle User-Groups…Your Resource Guide)
Age: under 20_____ 20-25_____ 25-30_____ 30-35______
35-40_____ 40-45_____ 45-55_____ 55-65______ 65+_____
Gender: Female______ Male______
3. How do you usually commute to work?
Drive alone/Motorcycle
Carpool / Vanpool
Public Transit
Park N’Ride
Bicycle
Walk/Jog/Rollerblade
Work from home
Other (specify)_____________________________________________________
4. a) How many minutes does it usually take you to get to and from work?
_________________ minutes each way
b) How many kilometres is it from your home to work?
_________________kilometres
5. At your workplace, what would encourage you to bicycle to work more often than you do
now?
Secure, convenient bicycle parking racks
Bicycle lockers
Showers and clothing lockers
Access to shower and changing facilities at a local fitness facility
Seminars on bicycle safety and maintenance offered at your work site
Reimbursement for bicycle travel expenses during the work day
Incentives such as green transportation points toward bonuses
Guaranteed ride home in the event of an emergency
Bicycle route maps provided at the workplace
More flexible work hours
Other (please specify)_________________________________________________
18
6. How much consideration would you give to bicycling to work?
I would consider bicycling some of the time
I would consider bicycling most or all of the time through the seasons
I would consider bicycling most or all of the time in the warmer seasons
I would not consider bicycling
7. If you do not commute by bicycle, why not (check all that apply)?
Distance
Safety
Air Quality
Daylight hours
Weather
Too hilly
Concerns about clothing
Poor cycling routes to work
Inconvenient in terms of non-work schedule (errands, school pick-up/drop-off)
Preference for the comfort and convenience of the car
Low fitness level or lack of physical ability
Lack of facilities at work (showers, lockers, etc.)
Not enough incentives from the workplace
Please return this survey by (date) to Jane Cycle. If you have any questions about this survey, contact
Jane at x 5678 or jane@cycle.org. This survey will help your workplace Bicycle User Group
(BUG) work with management to make our workplace more bicycle friendly.
19
Appendix III
Bicycle Parking at Work
Unless your employer has already been proactive in terms of providing facilities for cyclists, one of
the items on your BUGs wish list is likely to be secure bicycle parking. Many workplaces have inadequate
parking for bicycles, even when the employer provides free parking for car-using employees.
In a recent survey in Toronto, commuter cyclists evaluated their bicycle parking facilities:
• 28.4% are protected from snow or rain
• 46.4% say they have adequate security from theft
• 51% say there are enough parking spaces at work
• 35.3% of bicycle commuters said they would bicycle to work more often if they had better
parking at their workplace.
What should you look for when you are selecting the system that is best for the workplace? Here
are some ideas and resources that may help.
Location is everything
One of the basics of effective bicycle parking is good location. Most importantly, bicycle racks
should be conveniently located in order to encourage cycling and secure enough to reasonably safeguard
against bicycle theft. Locating bicycle parking in well-lit areas is also an important consideration
in terms of personal security. Another consideration in the location of bicycle parking is pedestrian
conflict – locate racks so that parked bicycles don’t block pedestrians. The location should
address most of the needs of the users which can be easily be determined by a quick survey.
Rack Selection
As a cyclist you probably already know that all bicycle racks are not created equal, having parked at
and locked your bicycle to many variations of racks. So, what should you look for?
• racks should allow the frame and one wheel to be locked to the rack by a U-type lock
• all racks must have the ability to be securely anchored (tamper proof bolts)
• there are many options for racks that are secured on the ground, on the wall and on the
ceiling
• select a bicycle rack with no protruding bars that could trip or injure cyclists or pedestrians
• see the list of retailers and discuss the pros and cons of each type of rack that your BUG
members have encountered
Once you have selected a rack type, you will have to
determine the number required or feasible. This will be
a function of the space you have available to you (e.g.
number of parking spaces to be converted to bicycle
parking). Consider the following:
• cyclists should have easy access to their bicycle
(generally 2′x 6′ for each space)
• consider the space of the rack and the bicycle, not
only the rack
• provide an aisle for manoeuvering room (at least 5’]
20
• staggering racks on 17″ centres can work as well
Other things to consider
While a few cyclists will continue cycling throughout the winter, all cyclists are exposed to rain at
other times of the year. Since prolonged exposure to rain and snow can rust a bicycle’s frame and
bicycle components, weather protection in the form of covered bicycle parking would be welcome.
This may not be an issue if management agrees to convert existing underground car parking spaces
to bicycle parking. What else should you consider?
• If the budget permits, try to cover at least half of the space
• the cover should be at least 7 feet above the ground
• take advantage of existing overhangs or awnings – it’s low-cost
• consider installing enclosed bicycle lockers
• cover that is too high will not protect cyclists or their bicycles from the elements
What doesn’t work!
• Old fashioned racks that hold only the wheel of the bicycle
can cause damage to the wheel, and many MTB wheels will
not even fit. Plus, many bicycles are equipped with ‘quick
release’ wheels which means that if only the wheel is
secured, the rest of the bicycle can be easily stolen.
• Bicycle racks that are too closely installed or are too close to
a wall
• Insufficient distance between car and bicycle parking
Questions about bicycle parking? Contact the City of Ottawa,
Bicycle Facilities at 580-2424. For more in-depth information on
bicycle rack installation, indoor bicycle parking and covered bicycle
parking refer to the fact sheets issues by the State of Oregon’s
Department of Environmental Quality, available on-line from
http://www.vtpi.org/ (Go to pedestrian and bicycle issues).
List of Bicycle Parking Suppliers (bicycle racks, bicycle lockers and bicycle storage):
CANADA
BIKE-UP® Bicycle Parking Systems, 6 Antares Drive, Phase II, Unit #10B, Nepean, Ontario
K2E 8A9 CANADA. Tel: 1-613-226-6452. Fax: 1-613-228-3539. Email len@bikeup.com .
Bike racks: both horizontal and vertical to fulfill every parking need.
Dobra Design, 4230 Blenheim St., Vancouver, B.C., Canada V6L 2Z4. Tel: 1-604-733-9486.
Fax: 1-604-739-1833. Email: contact@dobradesign.bc.ca
Playland, Box 15, R.R.#2, Shallow Lake, Ontario, N0H 2K0 CANADA. Tel: 800-269-6533.
Fax: 519-935-2174. Email: play@playlandcanada.com .
SPI Industries Inc – Box 10, R.R.#2, Shallow Lake, Ontario, N0H 2K0 CANADA. Tel: 800-269-6533.
Fax: 519-935-2174. Email: spi@spiplastics.com. Manufacturers of modular polyethylene molded
bicycle locker systems.
21
UNITED STATES
Bike Guard, PO Box 520, Rexburg, ID 83440. Tel: 1-208-356-0744. Fax: 1-208-356-7333
Email: bikegd@ida.net
Bike Lokr, PO Box 720005, Norman, OK 73070. Tel: 1-800-245-3565
Bike Track, Inc, PO Box 235, Woodstock, VT 05091 USA. Tel: 1-888-MODULES (1-888-663-8537)
or 1-802-457-3275. Fax: 1-802-457-3704 . Email: info@biketrack.com. Bicycle racks and anti-skid
surfaces.
Brandir International, A A A Ribbon Rack Co., Inc., 521 Fifth Avenue, 17th Floor, New York, NY
10175-0038 USA. Tel: 1-212-505-6500 Fax: 1-212-505-6813. Email: ribnrack@aol.com
Cora. Tel: 1-800-354-8624. Email: info@cora.com . Racks and locker manufacture.
Cycle-safe, 487 Arrowhead SE, Grand Rapids, MI 49546 USA Tel.: 1-616-954-9977.
Fax: 1-616-954-0290. Email CycleSafe@aol.com . Vendor of bicycle lockers.
Dero, 1429 Washington Ave. South – Suite 2, Minneapolis, MN 55454-1000.
Toll free: 888-DERO-RAX (888-337-6729). Tel: 1-612-359-0689. Fax: 1-612-341-3356.
E-mail: dero@dero.com Products for schools, offices and home.
GF Structures, 4655 W. Arthington St., Chicago, Illinois 60644. Tel: 1-773-626-4122.
Fax: 1-773-626-6162. Email: info@gfstructures.com
Graber, Tel: 1-800-783-7257 or 1-608-274-6550. Fax: 1-608-274-1702.
Madrax (a TL Graber Co.), 2210 Pinehurst Drive, Middleton, Wisconsin 53562, USA.
Tel.: 1-800-448-7931. Tel.: 1-608-831-9040. Fax: 1-608-831-7623. Email: sales@madrax.com.
Produces Dura-locker.
In The Meantime……
It may be some time before secure or covered bicycle parking becomes a reality or your proposal for
bicycle parking may not even be successful at first. In the interim, you may have to opt for public
bicycle parking if available and be sure to lock your bicycle as effectively as possible.
Public Bicycle Parking
Bicycle racks are available throughout Ottawa,
often on sidewalks or beside the road. They are
painted blue, red or silver, and some racks are covered
to provide shelter from the elements. Newer
stores usually have bicycle parking near their
entrances. Furthermore, supervised bicycle parking
is available at the corner of William and Rideau
streets in the Byward Market. Covered bicycle
parking is also available; locations can be found by
referring to the Ottawa Bike Guide (distributed to
260, 000 Ottawa households in early spring) or 22
the City of Ottawa website at www.city.ottawa.on.ca/city_services/traffic/uobg_parking_en.shtml.
Bicycle Parking Security
Bicycle security is an important issue at the workplace, although many bicycles are stolen from a
person’s home and other places as well. In the 1991 Bike to Work Week Survey in Toronto, 45%
respondents reported having had a bicycle stolen. The bicycles were stolen from home (52.5%),
work (23.5%), school (7.0%) and other places (17.0%). Your BUG could consider hosting workshops
on preventing bicycle theft, ensuring secure parking and /or it could organize bicycle registration
with the police.
Here are a few considerations to keep in mind when thinking of bicycle security:
1. Always try to pick a spot in a busy public place to lock your bicycle, and avoid out-of-theway
locations like back lanes.
2. If you have to leave your bicycle out overnight, lock it in a well-lit location.
3. Don’t leave your bicycle unattended or unlocked on a roof rack or porch.
4. When you buy a bicycle lock, get the best one possible. Citizens for Safe Cycling says
that even though U-locks are the strongest locks available, they can still be broken. You
can reinforce the lock by adding the cast-iron plumber’s ‘T’ connector available in most
hardware stores. Newer- version U-locks don’t need the plumbers T, depending on how
the lock section is designed and where the keyhole is located. In fact, it will block the lock
on newer Kryptonites.
5. Lock your frame and your wheel. If you just lock your wheel, your bicycle can be quickly
detached and carried away. With a quick-release wheel, this process is even easier. If you
encounter an old-style rack that only lets you lock your wheel, look for another place to
park.
6. Make sure to lock your bicycle to something solid, such as secure, bolted down bicycle
racks around the City, solid steel railings or well-anchored, tall poles. Parking meters
are another solid spot to secure your bicycle. It is legal to lock your bicycle to one, but
make sure you do not impede pedestrian access on the adjacent sidewalk.
7. Do not lock your bicycle to things made of wood, such as porch railings, trees or park
benches or easily cut wire fences. Any pole over which your bicycle and lock could be
lifted should be avoided as should poles that are loose or removable or wheelchair ramps.
8. If you have a removable seat, lights, mirrors, or other removable bicycle parts, either make
them non-removable (i.e. replace quick-releases with sturdy nuts and fill in the holds in the
nuts with epoxy), or always remove them and take them with you.
23
Appendix IV
Shower and change facilities
Some Background Information
A Toronto survey in the mid-1990′s found that only 44.6% of commuter cyclists have access to
shower or change facilities at or near their workplace. Of people who have access to these facilities,
70.9% make some use of them (from occasional use to daily use). Another survey conducted by the
Toronto Cycling Committee indicated that shower and change facilities would entice 45.3% of
respondents to bicycle to work more often. That would be a significant and worthwhile target in commuter
cyclist numbers.
What kind of arrangements are feasible? This depends a lot on what already exists – showers are
expensive to install. However, some ideas for management to consider are:
• Renovating existing washrooms to provide a change room area
• Providing clothes lockers for employees (possibly for a nominal fee)
• Installing a washer and dryer at work to deal with rainy/slushy day fashion disasters
• Obtaining group rates for shower use at a nearby gym or better yet, have the employer pay
for it
The latter option can work well since fitness centrers may charge much less to provide access to the
showers (compared to access to the gym equipment), especially if the showers are used during offpeak
hours. For example, the City of Toronto has a fitness centre for employees that costs $20 for
6 months of access to the shower and change room facilities.
Shower wish list details:
• Good ventilation is essential – you don’t want to come out sweatier than when you went in.
• A small bench is handy to place personal belongings while you shower.
• Make sure the hot water supply is up to the task before the shower is fitted
• Somewhere to hang dry towels and wet riding gear will stop radiators and backs of chairs
from becoming cluttered.
• A well-drained floor is a must – there’s nothing worse than having wet socks all day.
• Lockers are the finishing touch.
Your BUG can also provide information on clothing care and strategies for new cyclists. Many people
may think they need to shower after they cycle to work, however, it depends on how far and fast
they ride. Tips on getting bicycle grease out of clothing or keeping dry in wet weather are also helpful
to people who want to ride more often.
The locker question!
As the bicycle user group at Environment Canada has found out, there is a heavy demand for lockers,
particularly from women users. When first asking for more lockers to be installed, the group in
conjunction with other users, had to do an inventory of available space, come up with a floor plan
and have all other relevant facts and figures at hand to present to management. Eventually
24
more lockers were installed, but there never seem to be enough to meet the need. Members pay
$10/year for the privilege of a locker and are asked on an annual basis if they want to renew their
locker access. The EC group has found that this avoids empty lockers with locks of employees that
have left a long time ago.
The State of Oregon Department of Environmental Quality published a fact sheet on retrofitting
existing rest rooms or other areas with lockers. This information is available on-line from
http://www.vtpi.org/ (Go to pedestrian and bicycle issues and scroll down).
Some storage locker retailers:
Canadian Locker Company Ltd., Scarborough, ON. http://www.buildcore.com/cana1352.htm (Small
and large lockers)
Cohen’s Office Furniture Canada, 50 Slack Road, Ottawa (Nepean), ON, 1-613-225-9116 or
http://www.cohen.ca.
Correctional Services Canada, http://www.csc-scc.gc.ca/text/catalogue/english/lockcloth_e.html.
(They carry a line of different sizes of clothing lockers)
The Bailey Company, USA, 1-800-342-1665 or http://www.baileycompany.com (A wide selection of
storage lockers and baskets).
Craig Office Equipment Company, Montreal, PQ. 1-514-288-4038 (small and large steel lockers).
Hopkins Specialties Manufacturing Co. Ltd., Montreal, PQ., 1-514-272-5787 (small and large steel
lockers).
25
Appendix V
Traffic Safety
Just in case you are a bit rusty on traffic safety and have forgotten important traffic laws, here is a
refresher. This section will also be useful as a reference tool to answer questions that new commuter
cyclists may have. Traffic safety may not sound like the most titillating topic but riding with the
‘Rules of the Road’ in mind, can make your ride to and from work far more enjoyable.
So what are the ‘Rules of the Road’? For starters, a bicycle is considered a vehicle under the
Ontario Highway Traffic Act. As a cyclist, you have the same rights and must obey the same rules,
signs and signals as other road users. Any exceptions to these regulations are generally posted.
Riding by the same set of rules as a motorist definitely reduces your risk of collision.
I. TRAFFIC LAWS
Here are the basic rules, according to the Ontario Highway Traffic Act. Cyclists are operating a vehicle
and must:
• stop at red lights, stop signs and must comply with all other signs
• ride only in the permitted direction on one-way streets
• be in the right hand lane as a slow-moving vehicle and should be as close as practicable to
the right edge of the road, except when preparing to turn left or when passing another
vehicle.
• ride far enough out from the curb to maintain a straight line, to be clear of hazardous sewer
grates, debris, potholes and parked car doors. Travelling about 1 m away from the curb
should be a good distance to maintain a consistent line.
• occupy any part of a lane when your safety warrants it.
• before turning or changing lanes, look behind and signal to indicate his/her
intentions.
• stop for pedestrians at crosswalks and walk his/her bicycle across crosswalks.(it’s illegal to
ride a bicycle in a pedestrian crossing)
• stop for school buses when the upper alternating lights are flashing and the stop arm is out.
2. SPECIFIC BICYCLE LAWS
a. Lights – Your bicycle must have a white front light and a red rear
light of reflector if you ride between 1/2 hour before sunset and 1/2
hour after sunrise.
b. Reflective tape – Your bicycle must be equipped with white reflective
tape on front forks and red reflective tape on the seat stays (rear
fork).
c. Bell – Your bicycle must be equipped with a bell or horn in good working order.
d. Brakes – Your bicycle must have at least one brake system, which should be on the rear
26
wheel. When you brake, you should be able to skid on dry, level pavement.
e. Identification – Cyclists must identify themselves when stopped by police for breaking traffic
laws. The police officer will ask you for your correct name and address.
f. Crossovers – A cyclist is not permitted to ride in a pedestrian crosswalk or crossover.
g. Sidewalks – Sidewalk cycling is not permitted in Ottawa under a municipal bylaw. If you need
to use a sidewalk, dismount and walk your bicycle. Riding on sidewalks endangers
pedestrians and places yourself at considerable risk. Why? You cannot be seen by motorists
entering or leaving parking lots and driveways.
h. Highways – Cyclists are prohibited on expressway and freeway type highways such as
Highway 417, the Ottawa Queensway and on roads where “No bicycle” signs are posted.
i. Passengers – No passengers are allowed on a bicycle designed for one person.
j. Attaching to a vehicle – You are not permitted to attach yourself to the outside of another
vehicle for the purpose of hitching a ride.
k. Dismounted bicyclist – As a bicyclist, you are required to ride your bicycle on the right-hand
side of the road. If you are walking your bicycle on a highway where there are no sidewalks,
you are considered a pedestrian and you should be walking on the left-hand side of the road
facing traffic. However, if it is not safe for you to cross the road to face traffic, you are
permitted to walk your bicycle on the right-hand side of the road. It is legal and often safer to
ride on the left side of a one-way road especially if there are bus lanes or cars parked on the
right hand side (e.g. Albert Street).
l. Helmets – As of October 1, 1995, it is the law in Ontario for every cyclist under the age of
eighteen (18) to wear an approved bicycle helmet. However, it is good practice for everyone
to protect themselves. Adults wearing helmets provide good role models for children.
III. NOT LAWS, BUT GOOD IDEAS
Predictable, Proactive and Polite!
1. There are several things a cyclist can do to be predictable.
• Always ride on the right side of the road, with the flow of traffic.
• When stopped at a red light or stop sign, put your foot on the road, not on the sidewalk
(The former indicates to motorists that you are part of road traffic rather than a pedestrian).
• Shoulder check and signal when making a manoeuver, or shoulder check if it is not safe to
remove a hand from the handlebars.
• Make eye contact with motorists.
• Use lights if you are cycling close to sunset or sunrise.
2. Anticipating what could happen is central to being safe in traffic. For instance you can:
• Look ahead on the road for obstacles, pot holes or obstructions and prepare your
manoeuver well in advance.
• Shoulder check frequently, as you would check your mirrors while driving, to maintain a
sense of the movement of the vehicles around you.
27
3. Would you like to be respected as a cyclist in traffic? So would pedestrians, and often cyclists
and pedestrians cross or share the same path. Here is some basic etiquette for cycling on recreational
pathways:
• Cyclists must yield to pedestrians and ride at speeds less than 20 km/h (a safe maximum
speed), moderating their speed if other path users are present or where sight lines are
short.
• Cyclists should also keep to the right of the yellow centre line (where one exists).
• Sound your bell and call out when passing other path users.
• Always pass on the left.
Best way to cycle safely? Take a CAN-BIKE course along with your commuter cyclist colleagues at
work. CAN-BIKE courses will provide you with in-depth traffic skills that will leave both the seasoned
cyclist and the beginner confident in traffic situations. Don’t hesitate and call CfSC at 613-
567-1288 or e-mail promo@cfsc.ottawa.on.ca today to ask for your workplace CAN-BIKE course!
28
Appendix VI
Bicycle Basics -Maintenance and Equipment
If you are already a commuter cyclist, you probably know many of the tips outlined below. But then
again, who could not use a refresher from time to time? This information can also be useful if you
are promoting cycling at the workplace and/or are seen as a resource person for cycling information.
A Comfortable Ride to Work – Bicycle Fit
Many people don’t know about bicycle fit and some less reputable bicycle dealers don’t either.
When purchasing a bicycle, you should straddle the cross bar (or imagine a vertical one if the one
on the bicycle is sloping) and pick the bicycle up by holding the top tube until it touches you. If the
frame is the right size for you, there should be one to two inches clearance from the tires to the
ground.
Now sit on the bicycle. Do you have to crouch or lunge for the handlebars? If so, the frame could
be the wrong size or hopefully, just a quick saddle adjustment or different size stem can help this
problem.
Next comes saddle adjustment. As you sit on the bicycle, place one foot in a pedal in the down
position (6 o’clock), while placing the other foot on the floor. The knee of the leg with your foot in
the pedal should be slightly bent while the ball of your other foot should be touching the floor. If this
is not the case, you should adjust the saddle accordingly. The proper saddle position will minimize
back and knee pain. For cyclists who prefer a more upright cycling position, a riser bar can be
installed on a mountain bicycle.
Bicycle Maintenance – the ABC Quick Check
A is for Air
It is a good idea to maintain the correct tire pressure and check it frequently. You should do this
every couple of days if you ride daily or every ride if you cycle several times or less a week. The
correct tire pressure is written on the sidewall of your tire. Typically, MTB tires should be inflated to
about 65 psi (pounds per square inch), touring or road tires are inflated to around 100 psi.
Maintaining proper tire pressure is essential in reducing the frequency of ‘snake bite’ flats.
B is for Brakes
Anyone whose bicycle brakes have failed, knows that it’s not fun to try to stop at a red light at the
bottom of a hill using the soles of your shoes. If this happens to you why not turn onto a side street
or a driveway, if at all possible? But prevention is the best medicine. How? In order to test your
front and back brakes, you can alternate brakes and try to move the bicycle forwards and backwards
while you are stationary. Make sure that your brake pads are still in good condition (50% of
the pads left) and that they are well adjusted on the wheel rims. Most brake pads have a wear line
on them for easy checking.
C is for Chain
A squeaky chain is trying to tell you something! Keep your chain well lubricated. Clean and lube
your chain every two weeks if you ride every day and about once a month if you cycle less frequently,
and lubricate after every ride in the rain. This will keep dirt and rust from degrading your chain
and will leave you with a smooth ride.
29
Other tips
If you have quick release wheels or seat, be sure to check them after you have left your bicycle
parked in a public space for any length of time. Loose quick releases can be disastrous!
So you are not a bicycle tinkerer yourself? Why not have your bicycle tuned every spring at your
local bicycle shop? Still, it is probably a good idea to know some basic bicycle mechanics such as
flat tire repair. The frustration of small glitches en route to or from work can easily be avoided when
cyclists have a bit of repair and maintenance know-how. A tune-up at a bicycle shop might cost you
less than around $40 for a basic tune up and will keep the costs of maintaining your bicycle low.
Attend to odd creaks and knocking noises as soon as possible. Preventative maintenance is less
expensive than buying a new bicycle!
Required Equipment
You should alwaysso wear reflective clothing to keep you visible and safe when cycling at night.
Retro-reflective triangles and vests keep you visible without affecting what you want to wear
for the day. You can place reflective tape on your helmet, panniers or bicycle trailer.
Optional but Useful Bicycle Accessories
a. Helmet – can reduce the severity of a head injury in the event of a collision or fall.
b. Mirror – allows you to easily check for approaching traffic; some cyclists like mirrors mounted
on their helmets.
c. Rack and baskets or panniers (laptop/clothes pannier) – help to carry your cargo. This also
keeps your back free of a backpack, reducing sweat, back strain and making shoulder checks
easier because you have more mobility. Panniers are also safer than a loaded backpack
which can negatively affect your balance particularly when making turns.
d. Gloves – maintain good grip on handlebars and keeps your hands clean.
e. Lock – buy a good one. Rule of thumb here is to spend 10% of the cost of your bicycle on a
lock. Cable locks can be cut easily so purchase a u-lock. Kryptonite locks are the best for
your money and the best deterrent for thieves.
f. Fenders – these will keep you clean and dry. Even if you don’t cycle in the rain, a light rain
might leave streets wet.
g. Bell or horn – by law you must have one on your bicycle. The are useful to alert pedestrians of
your approach on shared-use paths
h. Lights – you must have lights on your bicycle if you cycle 1/2 hr before dusk or 1/2 hr after
dawn. You are required to have a white front light and a red rear reflector although it is a
good idea to have a red rear flashing light as well.
i. a copy of the Ottawa Cycling Map – the way to find the best bicycle routes around town
(http://city.ottawa.on.ca/city_services/traffic/26_1_8_2_2_3_en.shtml)
30
j. a tire pump ($20-50) – smaller, double-action pumps are lighter and easier to carry. You may
want a floor pump at home for regularly inflating your tires, since these types of pumps are
much easier to use for high pressures, and less likely to bend tire valves.
k. a water bottle and holder ($10-25)
l. a roadside repair kit containing:
• tube/tire patches
• spare tube
• tire levers
• appropriate allen wrenches and or screwdrivers
• an adjustable wrench
• surgical gloves or moist towelettes to keep your hands clean.
• spare batteries for lights
• change for some phone calls, bus tickets and taxi fare in case of emergency
m. thick plastic bags – for covering your seat when parked in the rain, and for placing around
items in your bags when it rains
n. water-proof shoe covers are another great idea. Some people prefer high-rise men’s rubber
Totes shoe covers; others swear by motorcycle boots while some like fabric shoe covers. At a
minimum worst cases, you can use grocery bags and rubber bands, but keeping your feet dry
is well worth it for comfort and longer-lived shoewear.
For extra comfort, convenience and fun, think about using the following:
• a handlebar bag or basket for extra carrying capacity ($10-50)
• a bicycle trailer ($100+)
• a bicycle stand or kickstand ($10-20)
• toe-clips and straps, or clipless pedals ($10 for straps or $60-250 for clipless pedals and
add another $100 or more for compatible cycling shoes)
• a vinyl saddle (prevents soaking in rain)
• a suspension device for smoother riding ($200+)
• a white light mounted onto your helmet for increased nighttime visibility
• speedometer or odometer ($30-100)
31
Appendix VII
Specific Cycling Tips
In Ottawa, cyclists are faced with the challenge of dressing for the weather, even if you don’t cycle
all year round. Very warm and humid weather can be just as challenging for cyclists as wet and
cool weather. Here are some tips to help you cope:
Warm Weather
Cyclists can have great tans but they also have to be sun-smart. Try to keep your skin covered from
the sun by wearing long silk jerseys or wear sun screen with an SPF of at least 15 that protects
against both UVA and UVB. A visor on your helmet can also help keep sun off your face. Cloudy
days are worthy of sun protection as well, since sun reflects up from the pavement. Eye protection
such as sunglasses with UV protection are also a good idea because they not only protect against
the sun, but they can prevent dust, dirt and other things (like small bugs!) from getting in your eyes.
When cycling, especially in hot weather, you should remember to drink lots of water. Your body will
need to replace the liquid it loses as you sweat. On smog-alert days, you should try not to cycle in
traffic if possible (travel before or after the rush hour is recommended) and avoid performing any
strenuous physical activity if you have a respiratory problem. Should you even be cycling on high
smog days? Studies have shown that the inside of a car is even more polluted than the outside air,
even on smoggy days.
Warm weather gear tip!
Wearing gloves while cycling is a good idea. Gloves in warm or hot weather can help you maintain a
good grip on your handle bars even if you are sweating buckets!
Wet Weather
Cyclists know that rain makes roads slippery. Even light rain brings oil to the surface of roads, leaving
them especially treacherous to cyclists. Heavy rain means wet rims and poor braking. This
does not mean you can’t ride in these conditions but rather that you ride differently.
Braking – Most bicycle brakes work poorly in the rain. If you have steel rims, ride slowly and
apply brakes gently at least 50 metres from intersections. Brake hard only after your brakes start
to grab. Try your brakes out in the rain on a deserted street to discover how they work when wet.
Aluminum rims provide the best wet weather braking.
Cornering – You have less traction on wet roads, so corner slowly with little leaning.
Puddles – Puddles can hide holes in the pavement, broken glass and other nasty surprises.
Avoid puddles or go through them slowly.
Metal, Paint and Wood – Sewer grates and covers, tracks, metal plates and lines painted on the
roads are all very slippery when wet. Wooden surfaces also become slippery. Slow down and
corner carefully on all such surfaces.
Visibility – Visibility is poor in wet weather; always use the required lights, wear bright yellow or
flourescent and reflective outer garments so that drivers can see you better.
32
Wet weather gear tips:
A good waterproof jacket and pants are great to keep you dry and in good spirits on your wet weather
commute. Some cyclists recommend a poncho-style rain jacket for better breathability if you
have a long cycle to and from work. Many cyclists wear visors on their helmets to prevent rain from
directly hitting their eyes. Yellow-lens glasses will help your vision. Cycling gloves are also a good
idea so that your hands don’t slip on your handle bars or brake levers. Shoe covers, toe-clip covers,
and cold-weather riding shoes help keep your toes warm in cooler weather. And don’t forget the
fenders that help keep road dirt both off you and your bicycle.
Cool weather
When the temperature drops to freezing or below, traction problems, dangers of hypothermia and
frostbite appear. Ride carefully and slower than normal in these conditions.
Black Ice – Overnight freezing can leave patches of frost and black ice on the road. Ride slowly
on a frosted road surface and go straight, using a medium gear and the rear brake only. Corner
carefully, without leaning. You will have some traction, but not a lot. Avoid any braking or turning
since you are likely to have no traction at all. On extensive icy patches, walk your bicycle. Be
especially careful when crossing bridges or going uphill.
Snow – Even hard packed snow provides some traction, but it is limited and your wheels are likely
to slide as you ride. Go slowly in a medium gear and corner carefully, without leaning. Use your
front brake delicately.
Hypothermia and Frostbite – When you ride in cold weather, your extremities lose heat fast, and
frostbite and hypothermia can set in. Wear good head gear, mitts and footgear, and keep rides
short.
What tires should you be using in winter?
There are differing opinions on this question. Some people prefer large knobby mountain bicycle
tires in winter because they provide better traction on ice while other people prefer skinny, road bicycle
tires because they cut through snow. The disadvantage of knobby tires is that snow packs into
the gaps of the knobbies which leads to a slippery surface on snow. Thin tires, on the other hand,
can be unstable on ice and make cornering difficult. Studded tires are also available to winter
cyclists and are better for icy conditions; many winter cyclists swear by studded tires! As a cool
weather commuter, you will have to evaluate your route to determine what type of road conditions
you will encounter in cold weather and then chose your winter tires appropriately.
Cool weather gear tips:
A tip from one cool weather cyclist with a long commute, is to wear Gore-tex socks over layered
cycling as well as wool socks. He also suggests wearing a kayak cap made of neoprene with a
fleece interior which fits nicely under your helmet to keep your head and ears warm. You can also
buy neoprene cycling shoe covers and lobster gloves with a split between the middle fingers which
allow you to brake and hold onto your handle bars while your fingers maintain skin contact to stay
warm.
33
Appendix VIII
Cyclist Recruitment at the Workplace
It is likely that there is a significant number of ‘would-be’ cyclists at your workplace. Many survey
results have indicated that, given certain conditions, many more people would cycle to work at least
some of the time. While many of these factors are out of your control, knowing what holds potential
cyclists back from cycling to work is useful. A preliminary survey of employees in downtown
Ottawa (conducted by Mosaic International on behalf of CfSC) indicated the following major barriers
to cycling:
• concern for traffic safety
• appearance at work
• personal constraints (fitness level)
• family obligations (kids at school)
• convenience
• personal safety
These are common reasons holding some employees back from cycling and should provide a BUG
with a cyclist recruitment strategy. If your BUG is interested in cyclist recruitment and is looking for
convincing arguments and ideas to implement at the workplace, below are a few suggestions.
The Cost Arguments:
Cycling to work costs less than driving a car or taking transit (no gas tank to re-fill and no tickets or
pass to purchase) especially if you already own a bicycle. The average private automobile costs up
to $6,000 annually in direct expenses, plus a potential $400 to $800/year for workplace parking. In
addition to these internal costs (costs borne directly by users), automobile use requires facilities
funded by businesses and governments. Parking for employees and customers is estimated to cost
businesses $260 to $875 per vehicle-year. Various studies indicate that governments spend $250 to
$500 annually per vehicle in general taxes on roads and traffic services. How does this compare to
the costs of maintaining a bicycle? Perhaps you might spend $200 a year on service and parts,
especially if you cycle year-round. This is in addition to an initial investment of anywhere from $300-
$1500 for a new or used bicycle.
The bigger picture costs…..
In the Vancouver region, the cost of adding roadway capacity to accommodate an additional vehicle
is estimated to cost $106,000. Urban parking costs $10,000 to $20,000 per space to construct, plus
operating and maintenance expenses, or $1,200 to $2,000 per vehicle-year, assuming that each
urban vehicle requires two non-residential parking spaces. This indicates that the average motorist
spends about $6,000 directly on each automobile, and that businesses and governments must
spend a comparable amount on facilities and traffic services, or a total of about $12,000 per vehicle.
Car Commuting – Does it save you time?
Over the decades, people have devoted approximately the same amount of time to travel, no matter
what their mode or average speed. Commute times are remarkably consistent across all the different
city types: Australian and North American cities average 26 minutes, European cities average 28
minutes, and Asian cities average 33 minutes. In the long run, it seems that automobile dependency
increases the need to travel. Whitelegg, a writer in transportation issues writes,
34
“Those who use technology to travel at greater speeds still have to make the same amount of contacts–
still work, eat, sleep and play in the same proportions as always. They simply do these further
apart from each other.”
The fact that the increased travel speed associated with cars has failed to reduce trave time is an
example of a “social trap.” Initially, cars do provide an advantage. The first households to own a
car in a community have a significant competitive advantage when buying a house (they can choose
suburban and rural homes), when searching for jobs (they can consider jobs outside the transit service
area), and for social status. But once other households achieve similar levels of automobile ownership
much of this competitive advantage is lost. Cars become a necessity rather than a luxury, and
the amount of driving required to maintain parity with others continually increases until other costs
(congestion, vehicle costs, travel time) become limiting factors. Cycling, in contrast, liberates a person
from many of these limiting factors.
The Health Arguments
Cycling allows you to stay in shape while you commute. For example, a 8 km round trip for a 130 -
pound woman burns 300 calories. Plus you save time and money by not having to go to the gym!
Cycling is one of the most efficient modes of transport. Here is an eggs-planation:
A cyclist burns about 15-35 Calories per km. One large egg supplies 80 Calories. A cyclist can
travel about five kilometres on the energy of one egg. 0 (symbol for one egg)
A person walking would require three eggs to go the same distance. 000
A loaded bus requires the equivalent of two dozen eggs for each person it carries 5 km.
000000000000000000000000
A train requires the equivalent of three dozen eggs for each person it carries 5 km.
000000000000000000000000000000000000
A car that gets 30 miles per litre requires the equivalent of seven dozen eggs to carry one person 5
km.
000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
000000000000000
Even if you double the kilometres per litres and double the occupancy a car will still use the equivalent
of twenty-one eggs to make the trip — more than twenty times a bicycle.
000000000000000000000
We all know that regular aerobic exercise is essential to good health. In fact, a sedentary lifestyle
has the cardiovascular risk equal to smoking 20 cigarettes a day. The most practical way to obtain
this exercise is to encourage non-motorized transportation. According to a recent government report,
“Regular walking and cycling are the only realistic way that the population as a whole can get the
daily half hour of moderate exercise which is the minimum level needed to keep reasonably fit.” One
study concludes that heart disease would decline 5-10% if one-third of short trips shifted from driving
to bicycling. Wait, there i’s more.! A UN Report on Transport, Environment and Health published in
2000 summarized worldwide findings of the health benefits of physical activity such as cycling, as
follows:
35
• a 50% reduction in the risk of developing coronary heart disease and becoming obese
• a 30% reduction in the risk of developing hypertension
• reduced osteoporosis
• relief of symptoms of depression and anxiety
The US Surgeon General in his latest report adds that:
• higher levels of regular physical activity are associated with lower mortality rates for both
older and younger adults
• regular physical activity is associated with a decreased risk of colon cancer
• there is evidence that exercise in older adults preserve the ability to maintain independent
living status and reduce the risk of falling
And of course, the environmental considerations of green transport
Automobiles are primary contributors to air, noise and water pollution, and major consumers of nonrenewable
resources. Harmful air emissions include carbon monoxide, particulates, nitrogen oxides,
volatile organic compounds, sulfur oxides, carbon dioxide, methane, road dust, and toxic gases such
as benzene. According to an OECD (Organization for European Community and Development)
report, “Transport is by far the major source of noise, ahead of building or industry, with road traffic
the chief offender.” Motor vehicles, roads and parking facilities are also major sources of water pollution
and hydrologic disruptions.
Bike Buddy Programs
If you have people interested in cycle commuting that have not bicycled to work before, you should
consider setting up a Bike Buddy program. Basically, a Bike Buddy program will pair up an experienced
commuter cyclist with someone who is just starting out. They will cycle to work together to
determine a good route for the new cyclist and can also go over basic traffic rules and cycling skills.
The experienced commuter can offer tips such as bicycle traffic safety, route selection, preparing
clothing for work, personal grooming, etc. Bike Buddy programs in Vancouver have been incredibly
successful.
You could hold a Bike Buddy Day, where you provide a free breakfast (courtesy of your employer, of
course) and try to match up bike buddies. This can be done along with putting up a sign-up notice
(Appendix I) as a way of having novice cyclists meet more experienced ones. If you can get senior
managers involved, all the better!
Rack’n Roll with OC Transpo
Potential cyclists at the workplace might consider
cycling part of the way to work, so you could
introduce them to OC Transpo’s excellent Rack’n
Roll system that operates from April through the
end of October on some of the major routes such
as the #2, #97and the #95. The Rack’n Roll system
allows a cyclist to extend their trip further and
gives a person the flexibility of opting out of
cycling in inclement weather and/or long distances.
Pamphlets describing the Rack’n roll
service are available from OC Transpo, the City
of Ottawa and CfSC.
36
The Annual Commuter Challenge
This annual green transportation event takes place in the first week of June, and is a good opportunity
to coerce fellow employees to try other means of transportation. The Commuter Challenge has
often succeeded in converting employees to using active forms of transportation. Approach your
management to solicit their involvement and then promote the event with promotional materials from
your local Commuter Challenge coordinator.
Cycling Seminars
Lunch-time workshops or seminars that address issues such as health and fitness can have broad
appeal to people of all walks of life and can then introduce the topic of commuter cycling (i.e. a captive
audience!) Other lunchtime topics could address some of the barriers faced by potential cyclists
such as traffic safety, personal appearance and cycling in wet/cool weather. In fact, your BUG could
organize a CAN-BIKE introductory or advanced traffic safety course. This may well inspire those
who are considering cycling to act. You could also approach local cycling retailers and inquire about
holding bicycle maintenance workshops.
Contact CfSC at 613-567-1288 for CAN-BIKE information and workplace seminars on bicycle safety.
37
Appendix IX
Cycling Bits and Pieces
Bicycle Maps
The City of Ottawa produces the Ottawa Cycling Map which is distributed by Citizens for Safe
Cycling. You can pick up your copy of the map at Citizens for Safe Cycling (251 Bank Street, Suite
504), at your local bicycle shop or at the City of Ottawa’s information desk. See the City of Ottawa
website for a list of retailers http://www.city.ottawa.on.ca/city_services/traffic/map_sales_en.shtml
Cycling Routes
Learn about recommended cycling routes to your workplace and generate ideas and support for
expanding facilities. Looking for a good route to work? Phone CfSC’s cycling route advice line at
613-567-1288 where you will be linked to seasoned cyclists who know how to get around on bicycle
in Ottawa.
Hit another pothole?
Report potholes, debris and broken glass near your work to: 580-2400 (24 hours) or
info@city.ottawa.on.ca.
Get to know your local government!
Local Government has a major influence over the provision and maintenance of bicycle facilities in
the local area. City cycling facilities, including paved shoulders, off-road connecting paths, bicycle
lanes, and bicycle-specific traffic signals help cyclists get to work every day. Your BUG can get
involved in advocating for these facilities around your workplace, as well as near your homes.
Local government is responsible for many activities which can affect the safety and convenience of
cycling, and therefore the level of cycling activity. Councils have control over such matters as the
local road system, local traffic management schemes, pathways, town planning, subdivisions and
development. It will be worth your while to obtain a list of all the Councillors and staff – and get to
know them.
The City of Ottawa has a Cycling Advisory Committee which works with city staff and councillors to
improve city cycling programs and facilities. All Ottawa residents are welcome to attend meetings
and make submissions to the committee. For more information, see http://www.city.ottawa.on.ca or
phone Stephani Roy, Supervisor, Advisory Committees and Boards at 580-2424 ext. 21779 (or Toll
Free: 1-866-261-9799) or email Stephani.Roy@city.ottawa.on.ca
Join Citizens for Safe Cycling!
Citizens for Safe Cycling, the Ottawa cycling education and advocacy group, works to improve conditions
for National Capital area cyclists. For more information about joining, call 722-4454 or email
cfsc@cfsc.ottawa.on.ca; for more information on cycling safety, cycling skills, or help with your BUG,
call 567-1288 or email promo@cfsc.ottawa.on.ca, or visit www.cfsc.ottawa.on.ca.
Bruce Timmermans Cycling Awards Program
Bruce Timmermans was a long-time cycling educator and advocate who was an active member of
the Ottawa Bicycle Club and a founding member of Citizens for Safe Cycling. Bruce worked tire-
38
lessly to encourage safe and increased bicycle use. His legacy lives on through the awards program
created by the City of Ottawa to recognize individuals and businesses that demonstrate a genuine
commitment to promoting cycling.
The awards fall into two categories:
1. Annual Award
For an organization – An annual special award to recognize exemplary contributions or investments
by a business, organization, or government which demonstrably enhance cycling use by
their employees and/or customers.
For an individual – An annual special award to honour one individual Ottawa citizen who promotes
cycling as a viable, environment-friendly alternative transportation mode and who demonstrates
an outstanding commitment to cycling, providing a highly visible example of safe cycling for others
to emulate.
2. Awards to cycling-friendly organizations
Businesses and organizations are eligible to display a decal indicating that they have met certain
criteria by which they qualify for recognition as a “cycling-friendly” location and that cyclists are
welcome on their premises.
Nominations
All nominations are confidential. Anyone may submit a nomination which must explain the reason for
recommending the individual or organization, specifically noting the contribution that they have made
to cycling. Nominations must indicate the category of award for which the nominee is being recommended.
Nominations should be sent to:
City of Ottawa
Traffic and Parking Operations
110 Laurier Ave West
Ottawa, Ontario
K1P 1J1
Nominations may be sent by fax to 560-6069 (attention – TDM Section). Nominations may also be
sent by e-mail to travelwise@city.ottawa.on.ca. Please contact the City of Ottawa for nomination
deadlines.
39
Appendix X
Resources
Other BUGs (from all over the world but mostly Australian)
http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/qt/driver.nsf/index/cyc_home_bug.html (from Queensland, Australia)
http://www.gn.apc.org/cycling/bugs/bugs.html (A BUG, british-style)
http://www.bham.ac.uk/BUBUG/startbug.htm (A group from Birmingham University, England)
http://www.connection.com/~regan/bug.htm (An older how-to for BUGs from Toronto)
http://sunsite.anu.edu.au/wa/bta/bug_page.htm (Bicycle Transportation Alliance from Perth, Western
Australia)
http://www.transport.wa.gov.au/metro/gettingthere/cycling/documents/bug_manual.pdf (a lengthy,
detailed manual on-line from the government of Western Australia)
http://bugs.netc.net.au/bugs_history.html (Australian Wangaratta BUG)
Government
City of Ottawa, Transportation Department (information on cycling issues, by-laws, cycling tips, the
TravelWise program, etc.), phone: 580-2400 or toll-free at 1-866-261-9799 and specify your request.
Or visit the City of Ottawa website at http://www.city.ottawa.on.ca/city_services/traffic/26_0_en.shtml,
(go to cycling and select your topic of interest).
City of Toronto (is initiating a BUG network this year), www.city.toronto.on.ca/cycling/5steps.html
Government of British Columbia (the Ministry of Highways and Transportation has a cycling information
page and links to many cycling organizations), http://www.th.gov.bc.ca/bchighways/cycling/bicycle.
htm
Organizations
Citizens for Safe Cycling (CfSC), the cycling education, information and advocacy organization in
the National Capital region (cycling route advice, CAN-BIKE courses, print and video resources,
etc.), phone: 613-567-1288; e-mail: promo@cfsc.ottawa.on.ca or visit http://www.cfsc.ottawa.on.ca.
Ontario Coalition for Better Cycling (mostly helmet issues, some resources)
http://www.magma.ca/~ocbc/
Edmonton Bicycle Commuter Society (winter riding tips, resources, links, etc.)
http://freenet.edmonton.ab.ca/ebc/
40
Greater Victoria Cycling Coalition (lots of great information and useful links) http://www.gvcc.bc.ca
British Columbia Cycling Coalition (province-wide advocacy group, links, publications)
http://www.bccc.bc.ca/
Victoria Transport Policy Institute (many useful resources including links to Oregon’s bicycle parking
fact sheet series) http://www.vtpi.org/
Toronto Bicycle Commuters’ Handbook (some useful resources)
http://www.sunnybrook.utoronto.ca:8080/~macgowan/cycling
Santa Barbara Bicycle Federation (cycling advocacy issues) http://www.sbbike.org/
Massachusetts Bicycle Coalition (cycling advocacy issues)
http://www2.thecia.net/users/bcom/index.htm
Center for Appropriate Transport (Eugene, Oregon, good resources) http://www.efn.org/~cat/
International Bicycle Fund (out of Europe, links, resources, conferences, safety issues, etc.)
http://www.ibike.org
Detour Publications (on-line publishers of books, videos and other resources on transportation
issues and urban ecology) http://www.detourpublications.com/
National Center for Bicycling and Walking (American organization, lots of resources and links for
advocacy) http://www.bikefed.org/ ; their newsletter can be found at http://www.bikeplan.com/
Bicycle Transportation Alliance (many resources, advocacy tools) http://www.bta4bikes.org/
New York Transportation Alliance (cycling advocacy issues) http://www.transalt.org/
Other More General Transportation Resources
Carfree Times (www.carfree.com) is an international journal dedicated to promoting reduced automobile
dependency.
Centre for Sustainable Transportation (www.cstctd.org/index.html) is a research institute dedicated
to encouraging more sustainable transportation policy.
Institute for Sustainability and Technology Policy (Murdoch University;
http://wwwistp.murdoch.edu.au) has resources for evaluating automobile dependency.
Peter Newman and Jeff Kenworthy, Sustainability and Cities: Overcoming Automobile Dependence,
Island Press (www.islandpress.org), 1999.
The Smart Growth Network (www.smartgrowth.org) includes planners, govt. officials, lenders,
community developers, architects, environmentalists and activists.
41

Bicycle! by Sam Tracy

No Attribution — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 21:37:36 +0000

Bicycle! by Sam Tracy
Editor’s Comments
I am not a vehement cyclist. I have a trendy, candy-red cruiser and enjoy tooling around my neighborhood. But I have to say that after encountering Mr. Sam Tracy, something has turned inside me, a gear has shifted, perhaps? I am starting to see life beyond gasoline and speedy trips across town in my Subaru. Bicycle! beckons me to do more. More for my community, my culture,
my planet. My bicycle.
—Susan Hill Newton, editor of Bicycle!
General Description
There is nothing sacrosanct about bike repair. Its pursuit only requires the will to learn.
At their finest hours, bikes exist on a level above mere machines, and there’s no reason why the joy should end once the ride is over. Bicycle!, written
by a die-hard working bicycle mechanic and former courier, offers up everything you need to know to feed and care for your ride, with a bit of bikes-versus-cars insight on the side.
This book cuts through the obtuse techno-speak like a fixed gear through the gridlock, conveying
maintenance clarity with humor and radicalism,
all the while categorically denying mechanistry’s
supposed dreariness. Bicycle! encourages any and all to learn the real thrills about autonomy in transportation, not because we have to, but because we want to.
Publication Date: March 30, 2006, ISBN: 1-933108-01-0, ISBN13: 978-1-933108-01-8, $19
Transportation | Sports, 272 pages, Trade Paperback Original, 8.5 x 11, over 150 photographs
Distributed to the trade by Consortium Book Sales and Distribution
Bicycle!: Press Kit cont’d
With detailed descriptions of all the most useful maintenance tasks and repair scenarios, clearly illustrated,
this guide serves the need for a serious rider’s manual. Professional bicycle workers—messengers,
mechanics, pedi-cab drivers—as well as bicycle commuters have been waiting for this very book.
S
ome of the Topics Covered:
• Essential Tools
• Bike Components
(Maintaining, Adjusting, Repairing)
• On-the-Road Repairs
• Build Your Own
(Scavenging)
• Locks / Thief Deterrents
• Rust, the Elemental Bike Nemesis
• And much, much more …
A
Few Bicycle Organizations
International Federation of Bike Messenger Associations, http://www.messengers.org
The Hard Times Bike Club (a. k. a. Black Label Bike Club)
Chunk 666, http://chunk666pdx.easyjournal.com/
Cyclecide, http://www.cyclecide.com/
Bikes Belong, http://bikesbelong.org/site/intro.cfm
Thunderhead Alliance, http://www.thunderheadalliance.org/index.asp
League of American Bicyclists, http://www.bikeleague.org/index.cfm
Author Sam Tracy
A
uthor Bio
Sam Tracy writes about bikes from a practiced Midwestern perspective, drawing upon his experiences as a bike mechanic, messenger, and shop manager.
In the early nineties, Sam began producing the zine Biker Pride, after being fired from the college newspaper for violating its objectivity rules. This project was later broadened just enough to become the urban cycling-focused The Multiplier zine. During this period, he also wrote articles for publications
such as Maximum Rocknroll and Punk Planet. His first bicycle repair manual, How to Rock and Roll, was published by Black Kettle Graphics of San Francisco in 2001.
Having biked through the last fifteen snowy winters in Milwaukee and Minneapolis, Sam is currently
residing in Boston, where he volunteers as a mechanic for the indispensable non-profit Bikes Not Bombs. Sam lives with his fiancée Kerri, herself a professional idealist, and their wonderful cat Kozmo.
S
am Tracy’s Manifestations of a Bicycle Manifesto
Bicycle! was originally inspired by various shortcomings in my first book, which I began to notice shortly after it appeared in print. I’d only worked as a mechanic for a couple of years before starting to write How to Rock and Roll, so maybe this was inevitable. The skills involved in bike repair really are broadly accessible, but the craft is also filled out with a vast collection of tiny rules and obscure exceptions, the sum of which can only be glimpsed at the outset.
I also wanted to produce a bike repair manual that told things as they actually were. Bicycle component
manufacturers are always adamant about their received wisdom, yet they sometimes flatly contradict each other’s findings, so this really seemed like the only way to go. The industry itself has traditionally favored bland, lowest-common-denominator sorts of books, but I fail to see how this approach could draw people in. Things are often more personal—shit breaks down; startling realizations
are achieved; good might even battle evil. And while some trends and technologies within cycling clearly deserve our support, others could certainly be scrutinized far more carefully, and given a little imagination this distinction could be better reflected in the options we find before us.
Of course it’s not quite so simple; our entire bicycle industry exists as a function of the monumental economic distortions descending from the petroleum economy, and to put it in a nutshell it is not at all positioned to move beyond that state. Bicycle design and construction should consider sustainability
and utility more than they’ve tended to—and it’d be foolish to guess that this would stomp all over aesthetic considerations—and the most should be made of what we have already. Bicycle! is about making it happen now.
speck press
Contact
For more information on Bicycle! A Repair and Maintenance Manifesto, please contact:
Derek Lawrence, Publisher
T: 303 744 1478, 800 996 9783
F: 800 996 9783
E: derek@speckpress.com
Speck Press is an independent press seeking to explore communities, cultures, and subcultures through nonfiction and fiction works by new and upcoming voices. Our books explore the underbelly
of scenes and people who are either typically invisible to the casual observer or are simply unexplored.

BROMPTON BICYCLE – OWNER’S MANUAL

No Attribution — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 21:33:42 +0000

INTRODUCTION:
Before using your Brompton, we recommend you read the sections on safety and folding. You
should also be aware how important it is to keep your tyres well pumped-up: soft tyres make for a
lot more pedalling effort (which takes much of the fun out of riding), wear out quickly, and also
have an adverse effect on handling. We cannot overemphasise the need to keep tyres well
inflated.
If you carry out any adjustments or maintenance work yourself, do read the relevant section of this
manual first, as it’s quite easy to get things wrong, and to impair the folding process or damage
the machine. If you take your bike to a dealer for any servicing work, wherever possible use an
authorised Brompton stockist.
Serial and Frame Numbers. The label at the back of the seat tube on the main frame carries the
serial number. The frame number is stamped on the main frame just forward of the rear
suspension pivot: it’s a good idea to keep a record of both numbers. The serial number will be
useful if you have any maintenance or technical queries.
CONTENTS
Section A Safety
Section B Folding and unfolding
Section C Using the Brompton
(tyres, gears, luggage, lights, etc.)
Section D Saddle position
Section E Handlebar and control positions
Section F Wheels, removing and refitting
Section G Running adjustments and checks
Maintenance diagram
Section H Other design points to do with folding
(front hook, handlebar catch,
lower stop disc, cables)
Section J Lubrication and diagram
Section K Routine replacements
Section L Specification of spares
Section M Options and accessories
SECTION A: SAFETY.
1. Before riding, see that the seat pillar clamp is properly secured, and that the hinge clamp
levers are firmly screwed up.
2. Carrying the Brompton: it is obviously less critical that the bike is correctly folded than
assembled, but bear in mind that, if the machine has not been properly locked together,
unexpected unfolding of the folded package, for instance on a staircase or lifting it off a luggage
rack, could cause injury.
3. Do NOT try to alter the height of the handlebar stem where it enters the front forks.
4. Keep the gears properly adjusted, and brakes and control cables in good condition. Running
adjustments should be carried out as described in section G.
5. During folding and unfolding, avoid putting your hands anywhere that they may be trapped.
6. High mileage and hard riding: aluminium alloy is used on the Brompton and this has a limited
fatigue life. Failure in use can cause injury, so follow the recommendations in section K
regarding routine replacements of ALLOY components of the bike.
7. The Brompton is for use on roads and well made paths. It is not designed for cross country
riding: this can overstress the frame, and anyway the tyres and wheels are quite unsuitable.
8. When riding on fine grit, or on wet surfaces, the 16″ tyres
have less grip: wet metal (such as a man-hole cover) is
particularly slippery. Also, in rain the brakes may be less
effective. Take due care.
9. Use lights, front and rear, when riding after dark.
SECTION B: FOLDING AND UNFOLDING.
If you have not had the Brompton demonstrated or explained to you, read this section before
trying to unfold or fold the bike. For those who are already familiar with the Brompton, part 3 may
be a useful source of tips.
Part 1: ORDER OF UNFOLDING & FOLDING – OVERVIEW.
a) UNFOLDING:
Stage 1: raise saddle & handlebar and (if a folding pedal is fitted) unfold pedal: these items can
be dealt with in any order, but they must be unfolded before moving on to stage 2.
Stage 2: unfold front wheel. The bicycle is now in its “parked” position and ready for use.
b) FOLDING:
Always “park” the bike by swinging the rear wheel under before folding:
Stage 1: fold back front wheel (right hand pedal should be moved out of the way if necessary).
Stage 2: lower handlebar & saddle and, if fitted, stow folding pedal; again, these items can be
dealt with in any order once the front wheel has been folded back and latched onto the rear frame.
Part 2: OTHER POINTS TO REMEMBER.
1. The seat pillar, when folded, is what locks the folded package together: it projects down from
the main frame, so preventing the rear frame from rotating. So, if the seat pillar is projecting
below the main frame, DON’T try to park or unpark the Brompton: also DON’T try to latch or
unlatch the front wheel from the rear frame, as this requires that the rear frame rotates relative the
main frame. Also if the saddle is not fully down, the folded package may fall apart when you pick
the bike up.
2. The folded bicycle can be carried by the main tube. Alternatively grip the front of the saddle,
but to do this a) re-clamp the seat pillar after folding (best with the saddle pointing slightly
rightwards, over the centre of gravity), and b) avoid pulling the padding away from the saddle
frame.
3. Turning the cranks/pedals when the bicycle is parked:
a) the left hand pedal should not be folded when turning the cranks, as it can catch on parts of the
rear frame;
b) during folding, the right hand pedal may have to be moved: to do this, the cranks can be
rotated forwards or backwards. However, when new, particularly in top gear, turning the cranks
quickly backwards can cause the chain to go slack or even come off. If this happens, turn the
pedals forward instead, or alternatively keep the bike in middle gear when folding.
Part 3: UNFOLDING AND FOLDING EXPLAINED IN DETAIL.
If you have not seen the Brompton being folded, you may get the impression on reading this
section that the process is difficult: it involves in practice only a few easy movements.
UNFOLDING, stage 1 – Saddle & Handlebars
(and folding pedal):
Saddle, fig FS1. Undo the quick release lever,
QR, under the saddle (swing it outwards and
backwards). Grip the saddle at the rear end,
and, resting one hand on the main frame tube
near M, draw the saddle upwards until it comes
to a stop: get the saddle pointing straight ahead,
and do up the lever QR (it should lie alongside
the main frame). In order to obtain a smooth
action when moving the saddle up or down, you
should pull or push along the line of the seat
pillar itself. If you need a saddle height higher
than normal, see section D.
fig. FS1
fig. FS2
Handlebar, fig FS2. The handlebar
assembly is kept folded by the nipple,
HBNIP, being trapped in the clip, HBC.
To release, pull the handlebar outwards
and forwards and swing it round and up.
To secure, make sure that the hinge
clamp plate, HCPL, straddles both
hinge plates, and screw up the lever at
HH, firmly.
Left Hand pedal, fig FS3. If this is
fitted, unfold it by swinging the pedal
body, PB, outwards. The latch plate,
LP, will snap into position to lock the
pedal in place.
fig. FS3
UNFOLDING stage 2 – Front wheel, figures FS4 & 5:
Do not attempt to unfold the front wheel assembly if either the saddle or the handlebar is still
folded.
Unfolding or folding the front wheel requires only
a single action, described below: however, it’s
a help to understand what goes on. The front
wheel/fork is held in place when folded by
means of the hook, H, passing over the tube,
CHS, on the rear frame. To release, the whole
bicycle must be tipped slightly back relative to
the rear wheel underneath it, so that the hook
clears the tube, fig FS4. The front wheel is then
moved out and forward into position:
during this action there is no need to turn the
front wheel – it should be kept pointing forward
(and slightly leftwards), fig FS5. Also you should
note that during this action the top of the
handlebar assembly remains roughly in the
same position, with the bottom moving round a
small half circle. fig. FS4
fig. FS5
You will find that there is a variety of methods
for carrying out this action, but to begin with
try the following: grasp the handlebar support,
HBS, lift it slightly (maybe lifting the main
frame or pushing back on the saddle at the
same time), and then, using a “stirring” action
move the front wheel out and round to its
unfolded position. No strength is needed for
this, but if you find the action awkward to
begin with, take hold of the front mudguard
with your other hand and help the wheel round
and forward. Finally, do up the hinge clamp
on the main frame at MH, securing the lever
firmly (leaning the bike to the right helps keep
the locking plate in place whilst doing this).
The bicycle is now parked, in
effect ready for use: to unpark
(fig FS6), lift the bike by the
saddle (keeping the front
wheel turned slightly
leftwards) and allow the rear
frame/wheel to rotate down
and back into its unfolded
position. By controlling the
way in which you raise and
lower the saddle, this can be
done in a single smooth
movement: if to begin with you
find the wheel hanging in the
halfway position, help the
wheel round by hand or with
your foot. There is no need to
lock the rear wheel assembly,
as your weight, when you are
on the bike, keeps it in
place.
fig. FS6
FOLDING: stage 1 – Front wheel, fig FS5:
Always start by parking the bike, fig FS6: to do this, turn the front wheel slightly leftwards (if you
don’t, no harm would result, but the rear wheel would clash with the front wheel) and then raise the
bike by the saddle, so allowing the rear wheel to swing down and forward to lie under the main
frame. The bike is now parked, and providing it is on reasonably level ground will stand up
unsupported.
It is tempting to start folding with the “easy” items, the seat or handlebars. The bike cannot be
folded properly if you do start with these: you must fold back the front wheel/fork FIRST.
Have the right hand pedal out of the way of the front wheel: best if the right hand pedal ends up
pointing backwards and downwards.
Unscrew the hinge clamp at MH on the main frame (three or four turns of the handle normally
suffice). Grip the handlebar support, HBS, lift slightly (maybe pushing back on the saddle at the
same time) and, keeping the front wheel pointing forwards, use a “stirring” action to move it out
and back round till it lies alongside the rear wheel (again no strength is needed for
this, but if it helps, take hold of the front mudguard with your other hand and guide the wheel
round). Make sure that the hook, H, has passed over the tube, CHS, on the rear frame, and allow
the front wheel assembly to drop (the whole bike actually rotating relative the rear frame). With
the front wheel now folded, you can move on to the other parts.
FOLDING stage 2 – Handlebars and Saddle (and folding pedal):
Handlebar, fig FS2. Undo the hinge clamp at HH (handlebar stem). Swing the handlebars down
to lie alongside the front wheel, and push home so that the nipple, HBNIP, engages in the clip,
HBC: alternatively, simply let the handlebars drop into position on their own.
Saddle, fig FS1. Undo the lever, QR, push the
saddle right down, and re-clamp the lever. During
this action, the lower end of the seat pillar passes
behind the plastic disc, LSD, on the rear frame: it is
because of this that the rear frame remains folded,
in turn retaining the front wheel in its folded
position. So if you do not push the saddle fully
down, it is possible for the folded package to come
apart when you pick the bike up.Folding pedal, fig
FS3. It is best to fold this with the left hand crank as
high as possible (i.e. with the cranks turned so that
the right hand pedal touches the front wheel): also,
the ridged side of the nylon latch plate on the pedal
should face upwards. Press the outer part of the
latch plate downwards, so that the inner part clears
the top of the bearing housing, BH, and stow the
pedal PB.
Front wheel assembly, other methods for folding and unfolding: the method described above,
viz. holding the handlebar support and using a stirring action to move the front wheel assembly, is
perfectly satisfactory. However, if you frequently fold and unfold your Brompton, you’ll become
aware of other, easier, techniques for this stage of folding.
SECTION C: USING THE BROMPTON.
1. Tyre pressures:
BROMPTON high-pressure: Record (C-type, see note):
Recommended Maximum Recommended Maximum
FRONT 60 – 80 psi 100 psi 50 – 70 psi 75 psi
REAR 70 – 90 psi 100 psi 60 – 70 psi 75 psi
(Note: on the Raleigh Record tyres it is safe, because of the rim profile on the Brompton, to use
75 psi max. instead of the 55 psi marked on the tyre.)
The most appropriate pressure depends on your weight and
preference. On rough roads, it’s obviously more comfortable if
you keep the pressures near the lower end of the ranges.
However, for minimum pedalling effort, use the higher
pressures.
With lower tyre pressures, the pedalling effort rapidly increases,
and the risk of punctures is higher: KEEP YOUR TYRES WELL
INFLATED.
A car-type valve is used, allowing various methods of inflation.
The Brompton HP pump is well suited, and can be kept on the
rear frame. You can also use a standard car foot- or hand-pump,
or an air line: with compressed air, say at a garage, the
pressure in the tyre will rise very quickly: so let the air enter in
short bursts, checking the pressure all the time. If you use a
standard bike pump with a flexible connector, you have to
unscrew the connector very swiftly to avoid air loss.
2. Gears:
Two gear systems are used on Bromptons, derailleur (left hand trigger) and hub gears (right hand
trigger). To keep things simple, follow two rules for changing gear:
a) when moving, keep pedalling, but take the pressure off the pedals while making the change,
and
b) when stationary, avoid using the left hand trigger, and for the right hand trigger, back pedal a
little to allow the new ratio to engage (if, when pulling
the lever on the RH control down, you encounter unusual resistance, do not force the control:
instead, back pedal and try again).
Always make sure that the hub gear-control lever clicks positively into place (and is not left in an
“in-between” position). And if your bike has a derailleur, do not neglect to use it: if you use only
one sprocket all the time, the wear will be uneven.
If transmission is not smooth in any gear, take action to remedy this, as damage could result.
Adjustments of the gear control(s) will be needed from time to time, particularly during early use:
see section G.
3. Operating the dynamo on the T-type.
To engage the dynamo against the tyre, either, if the dynamo is fitted with a lever, depress the
lever, or, if there is no lever, push the body of the dynamo down relative to its bracket. To release
the dynamo, pull the body of the dynamo away from the tyre, and the dynamo will latch off
4. Fitting luggage to the front carrier block.
The front carrier frame has an integral tapered
latch plate. To attach the frame, slide this plate
down onto the front of the carrier block: you will
hear a distinct click as the frame approaches
its rest position, an indication that the sprung
latch lever in the carrier block has engaged. To
remove luggage, pull the bottom of the latch
lever backwards (this projects underneath the
carrier block, just above the front brake), and
then draw the frame upwards and off: a slight
side to side rocking action may be needed to
free the luggage from the block
5. Parking the Brompton.
When you first start using the Brompton, you may be put off by the way the rear wheel falls away
whenever you pick the bike up. However, this feature allows you to park the bike instantly, a great
convenience.
When wheeling the bike up on to a curb, the rear wheel assembly may tend to start folding,
particularly when you have a load on the bike. You can normally prevent this by lightly applying the
rear brake.
If you wish to do without the Brompton’s parking feature, preferring the rear wheel assembly to
stay put, tie an elasticated cord round the base of the seat pillar: it is often worth doing this when
carrying loads on the rear rack.
6. Carrying the unfolded bike.
Now and again, for instance to climb a set of steps, you may wish to carry the Brompton without
folding it up. To prevent the rear frame from folding, you need to use two hands, one holding the
rear end: but without luggage at the rear, you can pick the bike up with one hand by the main
frame and let the rear end hang down.
7. Wheeling the folded bike around.
The folded Brompton can be pushed into tight spaces on its rollers. You can also pull it around
with you, using the raised handlebar as a handle: this is useful over relatively short distances, for
instance along a station platform, but it isn’t practical for longer distances or on uneven ground
(when it pays to unfold the machine).
8. Using the cover.
The cover comes with a saddlebag for
storage when it’s not in use. If you don’t use
the saddlebag for the cover, you may find it
useful as a container for other small
items.
The zip on the cover helps fitting, and
allows access at the top for carrying the
bike. If you wish to make a neater package
and also partially to cover the base of the
bike, pull the lower edge of the cover right
down, and then draw the pull cord tight.
SECTION D: SADDLE POSITION.
If folded size is critical (and you are happy with the saddle nearer to the handlebars) then, for
maximum compactness, fit a saddle adaptor pin, pointing “downwards”.
With the saddle mounted in any other way, it ends up projecting somewhat from the minimum
folded envelope.
BASIC ADJUSTMENTS:
Height of the saddle: for the maximum height, draw the seat pillar up until it reaches a positive
stop (and for lower positions slide it down). If you wish to select a very low position, take care, as
the bottom of the seat pillar may project below the main frame and prevent the rear frame from
swinging between parked and un-parked positions.
Saddle angle is adjusted in the normal way (slacken the nut securing the mounting clip, choose a
suitable angle and re-tighten the nut: torque 13NM).
The saddle can be moved 30mm back by reversing its clip so that the seat pillar passes forward
of the bolt.
ADDITIONAL HEIGHT:
Riding with a saddle even slightly too low
is no fun. You can win around 15mm of
extra height by moving the saddle-clamp
up the seat pillar itself, and this might be
sufficient. If not, there are three Brompton
options which allow more height,
extended seat pillar, telescopic seat
pillar, or saddle adaptor pin pointing “up”:
see Section M for details. Alternatively,
use another design of saddle, with
greater depth.
Note: if you do opt for a saddle adaptor
pin, don’t mount it pointing backwards as
this could produce stresses for which the
bicycle is not designed.
SECTION E: HANDLEBAR & CONTROL POSITIONS.
The handlebars and control levers on the Brompton are factory set to provide a compromise
between compactness and riding comfort: for most users the riding position should be fine.
There is no vertical adjustment (see below), but there is some adjustment available in the fore/aft
direction. You should be aware that if you do choose to make such an adjustment, then the folded
handlebar will not lie as close to the front wheel as normal.
Handlebars or levers moved FORWARD: these will hit against the front wheel on folding, and so
prevent the handlebar catch from functioning properly: adjust the handlebar nipple as described in
section H.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you attempt to set the handlebar at a higher position by
withdrawing the lower part of the handlebar stem from the steerer tube on the front forks.
If the handlebar stem assembly has to be moved for any reason, then, on reassembly, a) leave a
gap of 0.5mm-1.5mm between the top of the steering locknut and the step in the stem under the
hinge, b) use a tightening torque of 20NM for the expander bolt (whose 6mm AF socket head is
visible when the handlebar is folded), and c) check the alignment of the handlebar catch (section
H).
SECTION F: WHEELS, REMOVING AND REFITTING.
If the brakes are properly adjusted and the tyre is well inflated when removing or fitting a wheel,
you won’t be able to move the tyre past the brake pads. One way round this is to deflate the tyre:
alternatively, loosen the cable adjustor (if it’s possible) or remove a brake pad.
Front wheel.
To remove, undo and remove the nut and washer on the left hand end of the axle, move the hook
(and mudguard stay) out of the way, and detach the special LH tab washer. Slacken the RH nut,
disengage the tab washer and remove the wheel (see note below).
To replace, follow the above in reverse, making sure that each tab washer engages the hole near
the fork end, and that the axle remains seated against the end of each slot while you tighten the
wheel nuts: torque 15NM.
Notes:
1. If the front wheel has not been removed for some time, you may find, on undoing the second of
the two nuts that the axle starts to turn with the nut so that the nut cannot be slackened off. If this
happens, re-tighten both nuts, then slacken and retighten the right hand nut a few times till it turns
easily on the axle; partially re-tighten this nut and then slacken the left hand nut, and finally undo
the RH nut again.
2. The LH tab washer is special: do not swap it with the RH tab washer.
Rear wheel.
Move the gear trigger(s) up to high gear and, in order to engage the high gear(s), move the
pedals forward and backwards. Park the bike.
Removing the chain tensioner, fig AR3.
For a hub gear, the control has to be disconnected: press the spring clip C on the adjustor A, and
withdraw it from the end B of the gear indicator; the indicator chain GICH will be left hanging
loose from the end of the axle and should be unscrewed from the hub and withdrawn.
Move the sprung arm, CTARM, anti-clockwise and lift the chain off: allow the CTARM to move
back clockwise until it comes to a stop; undo the securing nut CTN and remove it together with its
washer. The chain tensioner assembly may now be removed by drawing it sideways, off the end
of the axle (if a derailleur is fitted, it has to be tilted to clear the changer).
Removing the wheel, fig AR4.
Slacken the axle mounting nuts. For hub gears at least 4 or 5 turns are needed, so that the
tab-washers TA can disengage from their slots, SL2: you may need to prise these tab-washers
out with a small screw-driver.
Fitting the wheel.
Make sure that the chain passes round the rear sprocket. Drop the axle into the slots, with any
tab-washers TA the correct way round (i.e. tabs aligned with slots SL2). Make sure that the axle
is seated, at each end, against the end of the slot, SL1, and do up the wheel nuts, torque 22NM.
Fitting the chain tensioner:
First arrange the chain so that it is running true over both chainwheel and rear sprocket (for a
derailleur, the outer sprocket); next note that the chain tensioner body has two flanges on its inner
face – these should pass either side of the axle plate when fitting the chain tensioner.
For a non-derailleur bike, address the chain tensioner to the axle plate and press home, making
sure that the chain passes between the fixed idler sprocket CTIDL and the rear sprocket.
For a derailleur bike, the chain and the fixed idler
on the chain-tensioner-base, CTIDLB, have to lie
between the “uprights” of the chain-pusher-plate.
So, with the LH trigger up and the chain-tensioner
inclined slightly outwards as in fig DR14 (chain
not shown in this figure), feed the idler CTIDLB
between these uprights, and then feed the
chain-tensioner base onto the rear axle plate till it
abuts squarely.
Next secure the chain tensioner using the chain tensioner nut CTN and its washer CTW. This nut
should not be done up too tightly: somewhat more than hand tight suffices, max torque 8NM.
Now draw up the slack in the chain and feed it over the idler wheel on the sprung arm CTARM -
check that the chain is flowing correctly by turning the cranks.
For a hub gear, the control has to be reconnected. Screw the indicator chain GICH into the hub,
and make sure it is fully screwed home, then unwind through not more than half a turn so that it
points towards the gear cable. Next connect the adjustor A to the indicator chain and, with the
bike unfolded, make sure that it is correctly adjusted (see section G).
SECTION G: RUNNING ADJUSTMENTS & CHECKS.
It is important that certain of the jobs listed here are carried out at least once, if not two or three
times, during the first few hundred miles of use when parts are bedding in (see chart on centre
page). Thereafter, except for brake adjustment, they need to be carried out less and less
frequently. If you are not confident about carrying out these jobs yourself, your dealer can help.
Hub Gear adjustment:
The aim is to make sure that the indicator chain down at the end of the rear axle moves to the
correct position in response to moving the trigger. For this the cable has to be running well: it
must be free of kinks or sharp radii, with the cable pulley rolling freely.
Adjustment of gears must be carried out with the bike FULLY UNFOLDED (i.e. NOT parked).
Also (fig AR5), if the indic- ator chain GICH has
been detached from the adjustor, A, for any
reason (say for wheel removal), make sure the
indicator rod is screwed fully home inside the
hub (and backed off not more than half a turn),
before connecting to the adjustor.
While setting hub gears, always back and
forward pedal a bit before checking a setting,
and back pedal while changing gear. The cable
is made tighter by pushing the adjustor further
onto the grooved end B of the indicator chain: to
obtain a looser setting, the spring clip C has to
be depressed.
You can usually get things right first time by moving the trigger into the top gear, pulling on the
adjustor (away from the pulley housing CPULA), and then feeding the grooved end B of the
indicator chain into the adjustor until it is just not loose, i.e. WITHOUT pulling the indicator chain
out of the axle at all.
The setting is correct when
a) with the trigger in top (“3″), the cable is just slack, in other words neither flopping around at all
nor taut (if, when you try pulling the adjustor away from the CPULA, you can see any movement of
the indicator chain back into the axle where it enters it, then the setting is too tight).
b) with the trigger in low (“1″), the indicator chain (where it enters the end of the axle) should either
move not at all, or perhaps up to 1mm, when you pull the adjustor towards the CPULA (if it moves
more than this, then the setting is probably too loose: on the other hand, if, while back-pedalling
and moving the trigger slowly from position 2 to 1, you see that the indicator chain stops moving
out of the end of the axle before the trigger has clicked into position 1, then the setting is too
tight), and
c) when pedalling forwards (under no load) and changing through the 3 gears both up and down,
all three gears are positively selected.
If you need to make any further adjustment, always select top gear and back and forward pedal a
bit first. If you cannot obtain a satisfactory setting, then the most likely cause is either the cable
not running freely, or damage to the indicator chain itself, where it runs into the axle end.
Otherwise, the fault may be with the hub internals.
Derailleur maintenance and adjustment.
For satisfactory gear changes and smooth running, two stops need correct setting, and two key
elements of the system have to move freely: the actuator (or “chain-pusher”), and both idlers on
the chain tensioner
Chain pusher adjustment.
Use the stop screws, fig DR9, on the
chain pusher. The idea is that, in high
gear, the inner face of the inner upright
IU, fig DR16, shall be as close as
possible to the idler wheel, without any
rubbing pressure while the idler rotates
(to give the slickest change with
minimum wear): when the setting is
right, you should just be able to see
daylight between the two while turning
the cranks forwards, perhaps with
occasional contact. Use a 2mm hex key
in the forward stop screw H for
adjustment.
The same principle applies for the lower
gear setting, only this time, fig DR17, the
inner face of the outer upright OU has to
just not rub on the idler, and the rear
stop screw L is used for adjustment.
Cable adjustment should seldom be necessary, as the trigger moves the cable twice as far as
the movement of the chain-pusher (an over-ride spring inside the dogleg DL absorbs this
movement).
Derailleur trouble shooting.
If the derailleur still malfunctions after adjustment, or if turning the adjustor screws has no useful
effect, and there is no obvious sign of dirt obstructing free movement, then the procedure for
diagnosis is as follows. Step 1, remove the chain tensioner: this allows you to identify whether the
problem lies with the idlers on the chain tensioner (they should be free to move in an
out 7mm) or with the chain-pusher. If the chain-pusher does not move freely, and the cause is not
obvious, try slackening the M3 screw slightly (there is supposed to be clearance). Step 2, remove
this M3 screw completely: this allows you to identify whether there is a problem with the cable and
the dogleg link DL (e.g. dirt on the spring, misalignment of cable and cable stops, etc.), or with
the chain-pusher (e.g. hidden dirt, seized bearing: you may need to remove the chain pusher from
the frame).
Crank axle bolts and pedals:
The crank axle bolts should be torqued down (32NM, use a 14mm AF socket) after the first few
hours of use, with occasional checks thereafter. Check also that the pedals are secure (torque
30NM): note that the LH pedal has a LH thread.
Seat clamp:
The quick release clamp (QR, fig FS1) should be kept adjusted so that the lever closes firmly
when doing the clamp up; if the movement is slack and easy, with little resistance, the seat pillar
will not be properly secured. As a guide, with the seat clamp lever forward (i.e. done up), the
adjustor nut AN should be tightened with a torque in the range 5-8NM and the maximum closing
force needed at the end of the lever while securing the clamp should lie in the range 80-120N.
The correct setting will depend on the weight and strength of the user.
Do not over-tighten, as this can cause damage. For normal tightening during the life of the
machine, a sixth of a turn or less of the adjustor nut will normally be quite sufficient.
If, after adjusting the clamp, the seat pillar slips in use, then the cause is almost certainly oil or
grease. Remove the seat pillar from the bike, and using soapy water, thoroughly clean both the
seat pillar and the sleeve in the main frame.
Spokes:
These tend to bed in during early use, and to lose some of their initial tension. which can cause
spoke failure (particularly for heavier riders). See that these are re-tensioned correctly after initial
use, and check thereafter.
Saddle clip bolt:
Because this passes through the body of the saddle, which is moulded nylon, some settling of this
nylon during early use may reduce the clamping force in the clip bolt: you ought now and again to
check that the nut on this clip bolt is firmly secured (torque 13NM).
Handlebar clip bolt:
Check that this is properly secured, torque 15NM. If it is loose, the handlebars may slip without
warning.
Brakes:
The brakes should be set so that the pads are as close to the rim as practical without actually
interfering with the free running of the wheel. When setting the rear brakes, the bicycle should be
in its un-parked position. Adjustment is carried out using the threaded cable stop on the brake
lever (or, on a C-type, at the caliper).
Dual-pivot calipers, centering. These are not self-balancing, and need to be trimmed so as
not to exert any side force on the rim. Apply the brake and watch for any trace of sideways motion
of the rim or tyre as the pads engage: adjust the M5 set-screw (visible on top of the caliper – use
a 2.5mm hex key) in order to get the caliper properly balanced. (If after doing this, the caliper
appears “lop-sided”, with one arm lower relative the rim than the other, then the whole caliper
assembly needs to be re-positioned in the frame. Slacken off the main nut (10 AF) holding the
brake spindle, adjust the M5 set-screw to get rid of the uneven look of the brake, and do up the
main nut again while pulling on the brake lever. Finally, re-trim the caliper so as to centre the
pads using the M5 set-screw.)
Dual-pivot calipers, pad position. As these wear down, or after any adjustment as above, the
pads may no longer bear centrally against the braking surface on the rim: re-position as needed.
Cup and cone bearings:
If these are set over-tight, damage is likely, and in the case of a geared rear hub, the freewheel
will tighten up as well (in turn causing chain problems during folding). Always ensure that the
relevant locknut is secure after adjustment:
a) wheel hubs: set so that very slight play is just discernible at the wheel rim. On the rear geared
hub, do not use the RH cone for bearing adjustment. Instead use the two nuts (22AF) at the LH
end: the bearing cone here is unthreaded, and its position on the axle is set by the inner of these
two nuts, which is in turn locked in position with the outer.
b) steering head: set so that no play is discernible, and so that (after tightening the lock-nut) the
steering is still free, and without tight spots.
SECTION H: OTHER DESIGN POINTS TO DO WITH FOLDING
Hook:
Correct function of the hook is important for
satisfactory folding: it retains the front wheel in
place when the bike is folded. It is attached to
the front mudguard stay (or, if there are no
mudguards, to a special wire form, not
illustrated). If it is knocked out of position, the
design allows it tobe bent back. For the function
to be correct:-1. The chainwheel mustn’t be too
far out. Part of the stay, B (fig HK1), acts as a
buffer against the chain wheel during folding,
and steadies the folded front
1. The chainwheel mustn’t be too far out. Part of
the stay, B (fig HK1), acts as a buffer against the
chain wheel during folding, and steadies the
folded front wheel. If the chainwheel lies too far
out (the gap G (fig HK4) between inside of chain
and hinge plate RHPL when the bike is parked,
should be 0-3mm, not more), then the hook will
be a tight fit over the chainstay CHS, and may
stick when trying to unfold the front wheel.
2. The hook must not be bent wrong (fig HK3): if
it is bent up too far, then a) it may catch on the
rear spokes, and b) it may slide off the tube
CHS, causing the bike to unfold inadvertently. If
it is bent down too far, then the hook will contact
the tube CHS at C before the front wheel (and
the rest of the bike) has dropped to its fully
folded position. If it is bent fore/aft it may strike
the chainwheel or (if fitted) the derailleur
changer, and if the stay is “crushed” in, the front
wheel spokes will clash with the chain tensioner
nut as the bike is folded.
If the hook is ineffective, and/or sticks during
unfolding, then, bearing the above in mind,
judicious bending of the wire stay (say by pulling
on the hook) should cure the problem.
fig. H3
Handlebar catch and nipple:
The “body” of the handlebar catch acts as a stop to align the front wheel correctly during folding.
The correct torque for the securing screw is 9NM.
Operation of catch and nipple: keep these correctly set, for, if wrong, the handlebar catch will
loose its spring effect, with the irritating result that the handlebars unlatch too easily from the
folded package.
Alignment of the catch, HBC: the catch itself
must be aligned so that the nipple enters centrally
(fig HB3 rather than HB4)
.Alignment of the nipple, HBNIP: this should be
in line with the catch HBC as it enters it during
folding (fig HB5 rather than HB6). Bear this in
mind if making adjustments as described
below.
Offset of the nipple, HBNIP: if the handlebar
itself, or the control levers/cables, are set too far
forward, they may, on folding, foul against the
front wheel and so prevent the nipple from fully
entering the catch (i.e. as per fig HB8). To
remedy, either reset the handlebar or levers
further back (i.e. further out when folded), or
unscrew the nipple so that it is further from the
support tube, HBS: the nipple must be able to
enter the catch HBC fully, as per fig HB7.
If the set up is correct and the catch remains
ineffective, either replace the h’bar catch, or you
may obtain a temporary cure by twisting the
nipple slightly (i.e. as not normally recommended,
fig HB6).
Lower stop disc:
When you pick up the folded bike, the rear
frame cannot unfold because the lower
stop disc, LSD, butts against the “folded”
seat pillar, SP. The LSD can be adjusted
to give the correct gap between itself and
the SP: if the gap is too small, then the SP
may foul, irritatingly, against the LSD
during folding. If the gap is too large, then
the rear wheel will drop away too far when
the bike is picked up, so that the hook
retaining the front wheel slips off the tube
CHS on the rear frame. The correct gap
is 1-2mm (fig LS1).
To set the lower stop correctly, you need a 15AF and a 19AF spanner. Do not over-tighten the
lock-nut, correct torque 8NM.
Cable routing, fig CR1:
The routing of the cables is carefully worked out,
and when replacing cables, correct routing is
vital if these are not to be damaged during
folding. Also the outers should be exactly the
same length (+/- 2mm) as the original cables,
and also have same ferrules (if fitted): always
use lined outers, and PTFE coated inner
cables.
All cables MUST pass in front of the handlebar,
to the left of the handlebar stem and to the right
of the main frame tube. The FRONT brake cable
must pass through the forward cable guide
CGF. The REAR cables must pass through the
cable gatherer CABGATH on the front brake
cable, the centre cable guide CGC and the rear
cable guide CGR as shown: they should also
pass inside the tube TT and the tube SS. The
gear cable GCAB should lie below the brake
cable BRCABR (if the bike has both derailleur
and hub gears, the derailleur cable should be
lowest).
Rear hinge screws:
These are factory set with a torque of 10NM, using thread-locking fluid, and (unless there is a
problem) should NEVER be checked or moved.
SECTION J: LUBRICATION.
When lubricating your Brompton, avoid getting oil or grease on the seat pillar or the wheel rims.
Grease is the right lubricant for all wearing parts (oil does not last as well), and where it is
practical to dismantle an assembly and apply grease, it’s best to do so. However, this is often
inconvenient or impossible, and oil can be used instead, but note that applying oil to a greased
assembly can cause the remaining grease to be washed away fairly quickly, and frequent
re-lubrication is needed thereafter (unless you re-grease).
Choice of lubricant: any good quality general purpose grease is satisfactory, especially lithium
based. For the chain, proprietary chain lubricants with good penetrating properties give the best
results. As for oil, some spray-on products are convenient to use, otherwise employ an ordinary
light mineral oil. For the rear hub, Sram recommends:
a) for the bearings and gears, Sram grease “Fett type A”: Brompton can advise where to
obtain this.
b) for the pawls, light mineral oil.
The chart on p.25 shows what to lubricate. For medium frequency items (marked “3″), a sensible
guide for the interval between lubrication is a year, or 5,000 miles.
Notes:
a) Chain: for smooth pedalling the chain HAS to be well lubricated: if the bike is used in the wet,
this should be done frequently. The easiest way to cover the whole chain is to turn the pedals
backwards while applying oil: make sure that the oil flows both onto the rollers and between the
side plates: turn the pedals a few more times to allow the oil to work in, and then wipe off excess
oil.
b) Hinge clamps: a thin smear of grease on the inside faces of the clamp plates ensure that
these release OK: the thread of the clamp bolt, and its washer, should also be greased.
c) Folding pedal: the pivot spindle on which it folds likes greasing from time to time. The main
bearing, which is grease packed, should not be oiled: however, if the bearing is not running freely,
some oil fed in past the seal will extend its useful life.
d) Rear hinge: this comprises a stainless steel shaft running in pre-greased bushes and these
will normally give a very long maintenance free life; however, after the first say 10,000 miles or 2
years, an occasional application of oil is recommended.
e) Hub gears: the gears and bearings are sealed; greasing need only be carried out during major
service.
SECTION K: ROUTINE REPLACEMENTS.
Planned replacement is advised to ensure both safety and good performance. The suggested
intervals between replacements are for bicycles subjected to normal use: the most appropriate
timing depends on the conditions of use and your riding style.
1. ALUMINIUM COMPONENTS: as on other lightweight machines, aluminium alloy is used in
the construction of the Brompton, and this material has a finite life before failure. In normal use,
the risk of aluminium fatigue failure is remote, even after many thousands of miles. However, the
risk of failure increases with use, especially with hard riding or other severe loading: as such a
failure could cause injury, the hinge clamp plates, handlebar and chainset should for safety be
replaced every 5,000 miles (more frequently on any machine subjected to hard use), and we
recommend that these items are anyway checked regularly. For the handlebar, an alternative is to
fit a cross bar (see Section M).
2. Transmission: if the chain is allowed to stretch unduly, through lack of lubrication or long term
wear, power transmission will be inefficient and rough and the sprockets will also wear quickly. A
new chain is not expensive: so replace every 2 – 3,000 miles (or sooner if it has lacked lubrication
or been used in harsh conditions). If you have allowed the chain you are replacing to stretch
unduly, you will almost certainly have damaged the rear sprocket(s), and possibly the chainwheel
too: these should be checked when fitting a new chain and if worn should be replaced at the
same time as fitting the new chain.
3. Brake cables: these do not have an indefinite life, and to reduce the risk of brake cable failure,
replace the inner cables at intervals of 4,000 miles or less. If there is any doubt about the free
running of the cables, the outer cables should also be replaced. New outers should be exactly the
same length as the original cables, with the correct terminating ferrules.
4. Gear cables: though less safety critical than brake cables, the hub-gear inner control cables
should be replaced at the same interval as brake cables.
5. Tyres: the risk of punctures increases with the mileage covered, as the tyre accumulates small
sharp particles in its tread. You should reckon on replacing the rear tyre every 3 – 4,000 miles and
the front tyre every 6,000 miles.
6. Lighting on the T-type: a) repeated flexing of the wires around the rear hinge when folding
eventually causes failure – replace the wiring loom connecting the dynamo to the front light at
intervals of 7,500 miles: b) front bulb and dynamo: these can have a very long life between failure,
but performance deteriorates – replace after 250 hours.
8. Suspension bush (flanged bush under the suspension block): 10-15,000 miles.
SECTION L: SPECIFICATION OF SPARES.
Chain: this must have the correct number of links for a given sprocket combination, as noted
below. Also traditional joining links are usually unsuitable because the pin is too long: so instead
the joint should be made by pressing in the rivet pin. We recommend Sram PC1 (1/8″) and PC10
(3/32″) chain.
· for non-derailleur, size ½” x 1/8″: max. pin length 8.7mm: number of links 50T/13T/98L,
44T/13T/96L, and 44T/14T/96L
· for derailleur, size ½” x 3/32″: max. pin length length 7.4mm: number of links 54T/16T/104L,
50T/15T/100L, and 44T/15T/98L (the rear sprocket size given is that of the larger, inner
sprocket).
Rear sprockets for geared hub (to ISO 10230): non-derailleur, ½” x 13T x 3mm thick (but for
lower gearing, use a 14T or 15T sprocket): derailleur, special Brompton sprockets, 13T and 15T
only.
Chainset. Best to use the Stronglight set specified for the Brompton. If you use an alternative,
make sure that it suits the BB axle (ISO 6695), that it gives the correct chainline (fig HK4), and
that the end of the crank does not clash with any part of the rear frame when the bicycle is parked.
BB cartridge. ISO 6695. For C-type, Ritmo S x 127mm. For other models, FAG 119mm.
Chain tensioner idler sprockets: non-derailleur, 10 tooth x 3/32″ wide at the teeth, x 1/2″ wide at
the centre, mounting hole to receive M5 bolt: derailleur, special flanged Brompton idlers.
Brake pads: Alhonga HJ 454-11.
Tyres: size 16″ x 1.3/8″, ETRTO 37-349. Inner tube with Schrader valve. Best to use the
special high-pressure Brompton tyres (see Section M). But if you cannot obtain these, choose
another reputable make: take care, as some tyres lose shape on inflating, and/or offer a lot of
rolling resistance, and some tubes lose pressure fast.
Control cables: The cable routing and terminations are critical. For outer cables the length, and
ferrule diameter should be identical to that of the cable originally fitted: for the front brake cable,
the outer must be in two parts of the correct length, so that the cable gathering ring occupies the
right position in the cable system. You are best advised to use cables supplied by BROMPTON. If
you have to use cables from another source, specify low friction cables (PTFE coated inner
cable, lined outer cable).
Dynamo: AXA IQ right hand fitting. Other 6v dynamos are also suitable, but you may need to fit a
special slotted stay (available from Brompton).
Front lamp bulb: 6 volt x 2.4 watt halogen. Do not touch the glass when fitting.
SECTION M: OPTIONS AND ACCESSORIES.
LUGGAGE, the front carrier system.
The Brompton system provides a highly convenient method for taking luggage on the bike as it
only takes a moment to attach or release it. As the load is effectively attached rigidly to the main
bike frame, it has little effect on steering. The system is a delight to use, especially if you
regularly need to take luggage or shopping with you.
At the heart of the system are a tapered block and a special frame which latches onto it. Then is
then a choice of 3 soft-luggage options that fit over this frame: all are badged for safety with a
reflective mark. A shoulder strap (not shown) is available for the panniers
Front carrier block and clip (100 gms). A mounting kit is
provided, and with this the block is made fast to the bicycle.
The block has a sprung clip to ensure that luggage remains in
place when riding. The block does not project from the folded
package.
Cloth pannier (1380 gms), a handy and
practical holdall made from tough waterproof
polyester fabric. The main compartment has a
divider for keeping papers separated from other
articles. At the back, there are two pockets for
items such as tools, maps etc. Total capacity is
22 litres. All the compartments have zip
fasteners.
Touring pannier (1670 gms). With considerably
more capacity than the cloth pannier, this has,
instead of zips, a roll-top system, with nylon clips, for
closing. Like the cloth pannier, there are two
pockets at the back, and a divider inside: in addition
there are three elasticated net pockets around the
outside, where you can stuff things which you may
want during your ride. Total internal capacity approx
28 litres.
Folding basket (1340 gms). Using the same material as the panniers, this
provides a large, open-top
container, ideal for shopping.
Mounted on the bike, the shape
is maintained by virtue of a
simple bracing frame, which
folds flat for storage. Drainage
holes are provided in case of
rain. When used as a basket
off the bike, it has the character
part bag/part basket, and you
have to take a little care when
stowing goods if you want it to
stand up properly. Capacity is
24 litres
Rainproof cover (55 gms, not shown). Though the material on the Brompton luggage items is
PVC coated, leakage is possible during prolonged rain through zips or seams. The Brompton
rainproof cover gives complete protection against rain, with an elasticated hem to keep it in
place. It’s colour is a highly visible, bright yellow: when not in use, it takes up next to no space.
Front carrier frame (690 gms), a brazed, tubular steel
frame, with a plated finish. The top member provides a
carrying handle and the base gives support for the load.
Its principal use is as backbone for the cloth items, but it
may also be used on its own to carry other luggage tied
to it.
COVER & SADDLE BAG (240 gms). In many
situations, say on trains, or when the bike is dirty,
a cover is useful. The Brompton cover is quick to
fit or remove, and it can be drawn tight around the
base of the bike by using its draw-cord. The
saddle bag is a home for the cover when it’s not in
use.
BROOKS LEATHER SADDLE for the
Brompton: If you are thinking of a change of
saddle, you should consider the special Brooks
leather saddle made for Brompton (extra 420
gms). This beautifully made traditional saddle
will give years of comfortable riding. For real
refinement, you can specify a titanium frame,
obviously light (extra weight only 185 gms), but
also with more spring.
LIGHTING
L-type battery lighting system. The relatively lightweight
rear lamp stays permanently on the rear frame, out of harm’s
way, while the heavier front lamp is removed for folding.
Rear lamp: Basta extra bright 6LED type, with integral
reflector: 2 or 4 AA batteries give approx. 20 or 40 hours’
use. Front lamp: Cat Eye lamp with very easy quick
release system: 2 size C batteries give up to 17 hours’ use.
The set includes batteries and the special mounting
brackets needed front and rear for attaching the lamps.
Weight with front lamp removed 140 gms (complete 350
gms).
T-type dynamo: “standlights”. A rear light which stays on when you’re
stationary is a great safety feature: the Basta 6LED rear standlight
stays lit for 4 full minutes after you have stopped (with a button for
turning it off sooner if you want, say at the end of a ride). For the front,
the Cat Eye lamp (as above) can be used: its large switch is very handy
for frequent operation.
T-type: special dynamo stay. If you wish to use a dynamo different
from the normal Brompton dynamo, it may, with luck, fit directly onto the
standard stay. However, if not, we offer a stay where the bracket is
SLOTTED, which allows nearly any type of bottle-dynamo to be fitted.
HANDLEBAR CROSSBAR.
If you ride hard or regularly (and particularly if you
jump over kerbs), your handlebar may not last for
ever: as failure can cause injury, we recommend
that handlebars are replaced at regular intervals.
But for greatest safety, you can fit the crossbar
(suitable for normal Brompton bars).
REPLACEMENT TYRES.
Our high performance tyres, compared to ordinary road tyres, make a really noticeable difference
to the performance of the bike: more expensive, but well worth it. Whatever happens, avoid using
any old tyre: on a small-wheeled bike, a good tyre is essential, and certain cheap makes can
completely spoil the fun by making pedalling far more effort.
Brompton standard tyres, 42FL, “yellow”.
Standard on L-types and T-types, these are
exceptionally free-running, durable and
lightweight.
Brompton Kevlar tyres, 42FT, “green”, with
the same skin-wall build as the 42FL, except for
the inclusion, under the tread, of a Kevlar belt.
This much reduces the risk of punctures, and it
barely has any effect on the attractive
free-running qualities of the 42FL.
Schwalbe Marathon. Though heavier (110
gms per pair) than the 42FL, and not as free
running, its advantage is its robust construction.
Like the 42FT it has a Kevlar belt included, but it
differs in having a) a deeper unidirectional tread
(with improved grip off tarmac) and b) a heavier
side-wall to reduce the risk of “pinch-punctures”.
Raleigh Record: an inexpensive, hard wearing, good quality, conventional road tyre, fitted as
standard on the C-type.
SADDLE POSITION. If you need a higher saddle and
you can live with its projecting slightly from the folded
package, fit a longer seat pillar and/or a saddle adaptor
pin (pointing up). Note: additional height is also
possible by fitting other types of saddle.
1. Longer seat pillars:
EXTENDED SEAT PILLAR (extra 150 gms), 60mm
longer than the standard seat pillar.
TELESCOPIC SEAT PILLAR: permits a saddle height
up to 175mm higher than normal, yet when lowered, the
saddle projects only 30mm from the folded package
(extra 295 gms).
2. Saddle adaptor pin (125 gms)
a) mounted “pointing down”, it allows the saddle to be moved up
to 40mm forward (which also makes the folded package the
most compact)
b) mounted “pointing up”, it allows the saddle to be moved up to
30mm higher, albeit slightly further forward.
GEARING.
Suitable rear sprockets and Stronglight/Brompton chainwheels are available to give gearing 12%
lower or 18% lower. If you want to use our chainwheels to change the gearing on a C-type, then
the FAG 119mm bottom bracket cartridge must be fitted instead of the Ritmo 127mm cartridge.
OPTIONS FOR THE C-TYPE ONLY:
FOLDING LEFT HAND PEDAL: The Brompton folding pedal has an ingenious design, using a
precision industrial bearing. It allows you safely to use both sides of the pedal in the normal way,
and yet to fold it at a touch, leaving a projection of only 20mm.
MUDGUARDS: Complete set with all stays, mud-flaps and fastenings, for retrofitting to the
C-type (365 gms).
PUMP: high pressure pump with thumb-lock connection, made specially for Brompton by Zefal. If
required this can be kept permanently to hand, on the rear frame.
BROMPTON BICYCLE LTD
Kew Bridge Distribution Centre, Lionel Road, Brentford, Middlesex TW8 9QR.
(and at www.bromptonbicycle.co.uk) April 2002